Huge mistake. I won a GP auction…. Cali FMTV Project “ ‘Merica”

[NDT]

I thought your front driveshaft was bent as well? I would highly suggest you look into the u-joint puller tool, these caps can be stupid stuck in the yokes. Wasting hours pounding and cussing is not good use of your time out there.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Definitely buy the u-joint tool. And pull both shafts. Just because it's not visibly bent doesn't mean it's still balanced. Some of these weren't well balanced when new.

 

[serpico760]

Definitely buy the u-joint tool. And pull both shafts. Just because it's not visibly bent doesn't mean it's still balanced. Some of these weren't well balanced when new.

I would say don't necessarily spend the money on the tool until you try it other ways. Mine came off actually stupid easy and I ended up not even really needing it. I had a standard two jaw puller that was a big one. I put two pieces of pipe around the ends and put those in the yoke holes, and pushed against the shaft and it actually came off easily. The tiger tool u-joint puller I bought turned out I didn't even need that either. Soak the pieces with something like liquid wrench give it some vibration and try it without the fancy tools first it might just work. I had way more difficulty getting the steering rod end off which took me several days of heating and pounding versus the u-joint and yoke which came out in a matter of minutes

 

[TOBASH]

I thought your front driveshaft was bent as well? I would highly suggest you look into the u-joint puller tool, these caps can be stupid stuck in the yokes. Wasting hours pounding and cussing is not good use of your time out there.

I would say don't necessarily spend the money on the tool until you try it other ways. Mine came off actually stupid easy and I ended up not even really needing it. I had a standard two jaw puller that was a big one. I put two pieces of pipe around the ends and put those in the yoke holes, and pushed against the shaft and it actually came off easily. The tiger tool u-joint puller I bought turned out I didn't even need that either. Soak the pieces with something like liquid wrench give it some vibration and try it without the fancy tools first it might just work. I had way more difficulty getting the steering rod end off which took me several days of heating and pounding versus the u-joint and yoke which came out in a matter of minutes

All great suggestions and viewpoints.

Many thanks.

What about shock absorber alternatives?

 

[NDT]

A used oem shock should still be ok. Suggest a wtb ad here for someone parting a truck out.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Haven't encountered a bad shock yet that wasn't physically damaged. I'm sure it happens but I've not seen it. I would just source some used replacements. New shocks for our trucks has been a sticking point. There's nothing in the civilian space that really seems to be an easy drop in unless you go into the performance aftermarket and then you are talking $1000 to $1500 or more per wheel plus custom fitment - IE buy a lathe and make the adapters yourself.

 

[TOBASH]

Haven't encountered a bad shock yet that wasn't physically damaged. I'm sure it happens but I've not seen it. I would just source some used replacements. New shocks for our trucks has been a sticking point. There's nothing in the civilian space that really seems to be an easy drop in unless you go into the performance aftermarket and then you are talking $1000 to $1500 or more per wheel plus custom fitment - IE buy a lathe and make the adapters yourself.

My rig has a bent shock from a forking forklift at GovPlanet facility.

Same with drive shaft and tie rod

 

[Ronmar]

There are a few shock options in our weight class, but as mentioned will require bushings to adapt to the hardware size used…

 

[TOBASH]

There are a few shock options in our weight class, but as mentioned will require bushings to adapt to the hardware size used…

I’m not afraid to customize. Where can I find the replacement options?

 

[Ronmar]

There is a discussion floating around here about shocks(search feature in LMTV section only), will have to look in my notes for the option I found most likely…

OEM Shocks:

20.94” to 33.26” 12.32” travel
5/8” top, 7/8” bottom (16mm top, 22MM bottom) bolts

the most likley off the shelf I found is a Monroe class7-8 truck shock.

Monroe 65456

20.25” to 32.88” 12.63” travel. So it is ~3/8” shorter overall length than the original(3/8 less full extension), but it has 5/16” more travel, so it is nearly 3/4 shorter when fully compressed… Not a huge difference from OEM…

It uses an L4 mount on each end(monroe documentation shows the specs for the L4 mount end). It is a rubber bushed round welded steel ring, so you will need adapter bushings and spacers to interface with the OEM hardware and mounts. I know of at least one person using them so far…