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sae 50w oil

Flyingvan911

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Would 40 weight work in summer temps of 100 degrees? Kansas City's summers can get hot every now and them. If I have trouble getting 50 I might go with 40.
 

treeguy

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Fort One Bay - Cape Cod, MA
I'm in MA and using valvoline hd 80/90 gear oil from Napa in all the cases, do you guys know something I don't, or is this grade ok? I have been running it for about a year and just recently drained the tranny to install a pto and the old oil seemed greyish not the golden syrup but the cases seem ok, but how would I know?
 

Flyingvan911

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Kansas City, MO
I'm in MA and using valvoline hd 80/90 gear oil from Napa in all the cases, do you guys know something I don't, or is this grade ok? I have been running it for about a year and just recently drained the tranny to install a pto and the old oil seemed greyish not the golden syrup but the cases seem ok, but how would I know?
There is a big debate about which is best in a deuce tranny and transfer case, GL-1, GL-5 or SAE 50. The Spicer manual says GL-1 or SAE 50. GL-5 is up for a lot of debate. You must be sure the GL-5 is MT-1 rated (yellow metal safe). Some say the EP additives in GL-5/MT-1 are bad for the brass syncros. Some say GL-5 has worked for them for years without any problem.

There are many threads covering this debate. A search will find them and you will have a lot of reading material.
 

treeguy

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This sounds like it is a very deep issue with lots of debate, but when I read things like "harmful to brass syncros" it scares me more than hitting a pot hole with a deuce going 50. Are you guys saying that some modern oils may degrade the parts we intend to lube?
 

Seth_O

Member
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Sac CA
I just did some tranny work and drained out whatever was in there from the gov. I replaced it with 80w gear oil (I had a gallon of it in my garage) and have found now that it is tough to shift, and the truck won't go into 4th until the tranny warms up.

Looks like some SAE 50 is in my future.
 

Flyingvan911

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There is a ton of debate and I think it revolves around the fact that not all GL-5 is MT-1 rated. Especially the old stuff when the 3053's were being tested. Old GL-5 may have not been recommended because it was not yellow metal safe and would damage the syncros. Some newer GL-5 is MT-1 rated. I'm not sure how the newer non sulfur EP additives would damage the syncros. If they are safe for brass then I would assume that means chemicaly (MT-1/sulfur) and physicaly (the EP's won't tear up the gears/i.e. friction).

I'm no expert. These are just some observations.
 

treeguy

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"I replaced it with 80w gear oil (I had a gallon of it in my garage) and have found now that it is tough to shift, and the truck won't go into 4th until the tranny warms up." "Seth-O" My 80/90 shifts ok but you need to lightly hold the shifter into gear until it slides in and 4th will grind if you don't wait for the engine rpms to slow way down, the shifting is sort of slow but I don't know if this is normal for a deuce or not. I like mine but it sucks pulling out into traffic. (How do you quote a post in your own?)
 
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Flyingvan911

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Kansas City, MO
There is also a larger rpm gap between 3rd and 4th gear. You might try shifting at a higher rpm.

To quote someone, click the "quote" button in the lower right corner of the post you want to quote. Then type your comment after theirs when the box comes up.
 
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treeguy

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Thanks for the tech. info, I'm still trying to learn how to use the functions here. Sorry to respond so late, yes you are right there is a huge gap between 3rd and 4th, I find that if you don't wind it out in 3rd than you will bog down in 4th esp. on any grade. I have learned to be very concious of the rpms before going from neu. to 4th to avoid grinding. Is there any fluid that would make shifting more slick?
 

Westech

CPL
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Location
cow farts, Wisconsin
Just look at it this way... The engine was rated to use 30W engine oil. The engine operates up to 210* give or take. I am sure the oil get a tad warmer in spots (piston sprayers). I do not think that the transmission or the transfer case gets that warm by far.. If you are thinking the oil will brake down.. not going to happen... yes after time it will just like any oil.. but I would say ifs safe and better to run the 40W or 50W. As for brass.... The engines I have built in the past I have used brass valve guides and lifter bores and never had a issue with any motor oil eating anything.
 

Flyingvan911

Well-known member
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Location
Kansas City, MO
I'm confused, are you talking about 40w or 50w for gear boxes or for the engine? Is my 80/90 ok for the gear boxes?
I think he is refering to using the 40/50 weight in the transmission and transfer case. Some engines has brass parts and are not harmed by motor oil. Therefore, the brass in the deuce tranny and transfer case should not be harmed either. I think it's in response to my question about running 40W oil in the hot summer.
 

emr

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Would 40 weight work in summer temps of 100 degrees? Kansas City's summers can get hot every now and them. If I have trouble getting 50 I might go with 40.
I am pretty sure hotter higher wt, colder lower wt. is a basic rule to follow in all oils, but there are exceptions, like age and wear. so really U are thinking the opposite,
Treeguy , yes the 80/90 wt is fine for your truck, its what has been used in service since it was new probably, for sure in the guard where most of these trucks spent most or all of there lives, but like said in the tm it states 50 wt in the trans and transfer, hey its the way to go for alot of guys, but I would bet in severe service the 80/90 is better. thats all i run, thats what is in em when we get em. for the engine in todays oils 15/40 is the best in almost all climates, a multi temp oil changes in temp to offer the best all around protection , and mostly for start up when it is critical, oil needs to flow in the tight ares fast and a heavy oil will take critical time to get there, a simple rule of motor oil is, a tight new motor a lighter oil, an older (looser) or more worn motor a higher number or thicker oil, basic rules of thumb for oil. oils can make one crazy they make one for everything, most of that is marketing, if U want the best answer, call the 800 number on the oil can u are thinking of using, thats where i have gotten all my info during the past 30 plus years, the techs there are wayyyy better than any mechanic or guy on the street. oh and i have found it is worth it to ask the same questions to different manufacturer techs and when they all say the same thing U know U are onto it, thats were my info accumulates from good luck.
 
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treeguy

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This is all so complicated, I need to search around other posts to see whats recomended for duece fluids (even the antifreeze - 50/50 h2o prestone mix - ph what?). I run 15-40 valvoline for the engine and the 80/90 valvoline as mentioned above in my cases. Now I fear that I am using the wrong oils, I hate doubting myself!
 

Flyingvan911

Well-known member
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Location
Kansas City, MO
It seems to me that all of the lubes will work fine. GL-1, GL-5/MT-1 and SAE 50 (or 40) is more a matter of personal choice. It is more like the arguement of who makes the best pickup. Some swear that Ford is the best and Dodge and Chevy are total junk and never made a truck that lasted more than 50 miles. Others say Dodge or Chevy are best and the others are junk.

I say try one and the next time you change your tranny oil try another. See what you like the best. I know it's confusing. Reading the other threads doesn't make the choice much easier.
 
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