sae 50w oil

[emr]

treeguy U are using what the Army uses, how can that be confusing...

 

[Flyingvan911]

The only way I see to test the three lubes would be to set up three test stands. Each one with a new or rebuilt tranny and transfer case. All new or all indentically rebuilt. One with SAE 50, one with GL-5, and one with GL-1. All filled to the same level below the fill hole.

Each one would have an identical power source. Each one would have an identical load equivilant to a loaded deuce. Run them for the same length of time at the same rpm then do an oil ananlysis at each oil change. The keep this process going until two of them fail. This would give some real data on thich one is best. If I win the lottery I will do it. It would be fairly expensive.

 

[treeguy]

emr, Flyingvan is talking about SAE 50, GL-5, and GL-1. I am not familiar with these and how they apply to the deuce if the army calls for 80/90?

 

[m-35tom]

if you are concerned about temp of oil, i will tell you that engine oil usually runs at least 100 °f hotter than the water temp. and with a turbo is will be even higher. trans temps on the 3053 usually never go above 160 °f. as for testing it, forget it, it takes much more than any of us have in means of lab and oil analisis. since dana / spicer says to use 40-50 wt, i think that should be all the proof needed.

tom

 

[wcolt45]

Rotella T sae 50 for me!

 

[emr]

emr, Flyingvan is talking about SAE 50, GL-5, and GL-1. I am not familiar with these and how they apply to the deuce if the army calls for 80/90?

I think it was said a few times in this post that the TM manual calls for the 50 but the services use 80/90 EVEN though it calls for 50 in the tm they do not actually use it, why because its not important , that is were U are confused again, , so the hobby guys reading the tm want the product specified in the tm , thats fine for them, and in this post it also says the gl numbers are compatible with all parts, meaning any brass parts... some were afraid would disappear if they did not use the newest of new oils, but these trucks have been the same since 1950, and all the oils these guys are talking about are good, i felt you were worried about the wts , the way i took it, and it just is not a problem, or the gl numbers either for that matter, do not mean to offend , i thought it was clear they all work and have been working in these trucks for years, its totally a personal preference ,good luck, ,

 

[emr]

treeguy U are using what the Army uses, how can that be confusing...

sorry what i meant is your truck came with the 80/90 and is fine, 40/50 is better but we will never see a difference. in our use of these vehicles, unless U live in extreme cold climates. then the lower wt will make a difference.

 

[treeguy]

OK thanks, I just can't afford to break anything.

 

[emr]

Thanks, its hard typing to see only good intentions were there...

 

[Hooty481]

I just changed the lube in mine because of a winch pto instal and I used the lucas 80/90 gear oil and didn't think much more of it until i ran across this thread and when i first seen the term "Yellow Metal Safe" i just nearly sh*t my britches ran into the garage and checked a bottle that i had left over and it said that it was MT-1 so that made me feel better. I have noticed that the shifting was a little different than it was before. Some gears was easier to get into and some a little harder. I am going to keep an eye on this to see how it goes. I'm in Kentucky and sometimes it gets cold but mostly around the 30-40 degrees mark.

 

[emr]

I just changed the lube in mine because of a winch pto instal and I used the lucas 80/90 gear oil and didn't think much more of it until i ran across this thread and when i first seen the term "Yellow Metal Safe" i just nearly sh*t my britches ran into the garage and checked a bottle that i had left over and it said that it was MT-1 so that made me feel better. I have noticed that the shifting was a little different than it was before. Some gears was easier to get into and some a little harder. I am going to keep an eye on this to see how it goes. I'm in Kentucky and sometimes it gets cold but mostly around the 30-40 degrees mark.

to be honest the guard units by U run anbrand cheapest bid 80/90 an they are fine

 

[treeguy]

Hooty481, you hit the nail on the head, after my PTO install my tranny also felt different.

 

[big1096]

Looking at the lubrication order 9-2320-209-12-1 from 1983, it calls for 80/90 GO. I don't see any mention of 50W for the transmission or transfer case.

 

[DMaddox]

do any of you all have to "double clutch" into 4th. I allways have to no matter how hot or cold the temp is or how warm the trans is.. I am running rotela 80/90

 

[WeBeJeepin]

I never have to double clutch my truck unless I am down shifting in low gears. My truck has the original govt fluids and it shifts like a Ferrari. (Not that I actually know how a ferrari shifts). I am glad to run across this thread since I was actually looking at oil at Auto Zone today and thinking about how a full fluid change would be a good rainy day project for tomorrow. Not trying to hijack the thread, but would you put the same oil in the diffs that you would put in the trans?

 

[treeguy]

I use all the same oil in ALL the cases, they are all gears meshing together so I thought what would be the differance? In referance to double clutching, I don't exactly know what that means could someone describe it please? Whatever it is, I just shift (like normal) UP shift - press and hold clutch / release throttle , remove from gear, rpms calm down to match road speed, put gear shifter into position, apply slight pressure and let it catch in, let up on clutch slowly and add throttle as the clutch engages. I can do this for every gear except 4rth I must totally wait for the rpms to slow down or it will grind. First and reverse require being at a DEAD stop or it will grind bad. Usually I start in 2nd low, 3rd low, 3rd high then stay in high, but switching the xfer I have to hold pressure up untill it goes in, sometimes it will just go right in, but other times it s--ks.

 

[big1096]

Double clutching is when you're in first (or whichever gear) press the clutch in as normal, go to neutral, release the clutch in neutral just momentarily, push the clutch back in and go to the next gear. It is done in order to idle the engine with no load, thus reducing RPMs quickly and enabling a smooth gear change.

It can be done in reverse when downshifting. Instead of idling the engine momentarily in neutral in between shifts, you press the throttle quickly. This increases RPM to match the lower gear when you downshift.

I double clutch when the tranny is cold, or when it's being cantankerous and doesn't shift smoothly. I do it frequently when downshifting because it makes for a smoother shift. It depends on your truck and getting a feel on how it shifts. It seems that they all have their own personality.

 

[big1096]

Here's a video explanation on double clutching.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7JqgBRLXho

 

[treeguy]

Thanks for the explanation! I don't think I do that, is it a sign of problems to come if you have to do this, like things are starting to wear out or is it just a truck personality thing esp. when its cold?

 

[gimpyrobb]

Looking at the lubrication order 9-2320-209-12-1 from 1983, it calls for 80/90 GO. I don't see any mention of 50W for the transmission or transfer case.

You are looking in the military's version of what goes in there. Try going to the manufacturer's recommendations. They spec 30-50 oil.