tatra813
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I also want to pull out the stock air/oil filters and put in a paper style modern filter, as soon as I can figure out what would fit in the same air filter compartment.... Anyone have any ideas?
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tatra 813 new owner
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Well I made some new fuel tanks because the old ones were rusted beyond repair. Made them from 1.5mm steel so they're a bit more durable too (and rediculously heavy, but hey, the truck doesnt mind). I replaced the fuel lines with made-to-fit flexible ones with a stainless outer lining for added strength. Other than that I just cleaned the filter on the pump and replaced the filter cartridge on the secondary filter. I got a new filters from ATH for about $3, a laugh really.
There is a stock electric fuel pump for the 813, was installed on the latter models with multi-fuel engine. Might be worth looking in to, if pricing is on the same level as all other parts, it might be a cheap option. I think they run that in addition to the regular pump, since thats a combined unit (manual & automatic).
Just checked my manual on the multifuel (913-17) engine model, it states the pump is there to help out when you run thinner fluids than regular diesel, because these might evaporate very quickly in the lines next to a warm engine. It's labelled "Kraftstoff-Forderpumpe CS 1A" and it's mounted in the driver side tool cabinet.
To be honest though, I havent found the need for an electric pump yet. Only have to prime manually when the truck has been stood for over 2 weeks. Whatever you do, I would not remove the standard mechanical fuel pump, because then you lose the option to drive the truck without electric power.
There is a stock electric fuel pump for the 813, was installed on the latter models with multi-fuel engine. Might be worth looking in to, if pricing is on the same level as all other parts, it might be a cheap option. I think they run that in addition to the regular pump, since thats a combined unit (manual & automatic).
Just checked my manual on the multifuel (913-17) engine model, it states the pump is there to help out when you run thinner fluids than regular diesel, because these might evaporate very quickly in the lines next to a warm engine. It's labelled "Kraftstoff-Forderpumpe CS 1A" and it's mounted in the driver side tool cabinet.
To be honest though, I havent found the need for an electric pump yet. Only have to prime manually when the truck has been stood for over 2 weeks. Whatever you do, I would not remove the standard mechanical fuel pump, because then you lose the option to drive the truck without electric power.
tatra813
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So did you pull the Wabco unit out?
Maybe get a inline drier?seperator that doesnt have the regulator. Or take the regulator portion out?
tatra813
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Duncan
What type of oil have you been running in your engine. What are you using for power steering fluitd?
What type of oil have you been running in your engine. What are you using for power steering fluitd?
Yeah I pulled the wabco and refurbished the standard pressure regulator/cleaner. Should've informed myself better before buying it, considering it another lesson learned. This winter I had no problems with frozen lines at all, so I'm now leaning towards the "dont fix it if it's not broken" side.
For the engine I'm running regular 10W40. The original specification was a single grade oil, but then the manual has an entire section on how to dilute the oil in cold conditions. Using the multigrade means my oil pressure is a little lower after start (went down from 3 to 2 bar at idle speed). At operating temperature the pressure is identical, so no worries there.
The powersteering is regular ATF. Clutch fluid reservoir had a note saying "fill with same oil as engine", so that was easy
Now saving some money to change out all the gearbox and drivetrain oil with some kind of truck differential case oil, dont remember which kind exactly.
Basicly, every diesel/truck mechanic I asked said the same thing about changing oil in this truck: "Anything you will put in will be better than whatever it was designed for". I found a reference to one of the old oil specifications in an oil company book, with a printed remark next to it which translates to something like "Cheap inferior oil mainly used in eastern europe trucks, do not use". I'm hoping they're right
Some more information on the old eastern europe oil specifications (with horrible google translation): http://translate.google.com/transla...p://www.palba.cz/printview.php?t=3229&start=0
For the engine I'm running regular 10W40. The original specification was a single grade oil, but then the manual has an entire section on how to dilute the oil in cold conditions. Using the multigrade means my oil pressure is a little lower after start (went down from 3 to 2 bar at idle speed). At operating temperature the pressure is identical, so no worries there.
The powersteering is regular ATF. Clutch fluid reservoir had a note saying "fill with same oil as engine", so that was easy
Now saving some money to change out all the gearbox and drivetrain oil with some kind of truck differential case oil, dont remember which kind exactly.Basicly, every diesel/truck mechanic I asked said the same thing about changing oil in this truck: "Anything you will put in will be better than whatever it was designed for". I found a reference to one of the old oil specifications in an oil company book, with a printed remark next to it which translates to something like "Cheap inferior oil mainly used in eastern europe trucks, do not use". I'm hoping they're right
Some more information on the old eastern europe oil specifications (with horrible google translation): http://translate.google.com/transla...p://www.palba.cz/printview.php?t=3229&start=0
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tatra813
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Sounds good. Ive been using 15w40. I didnt think 10w40 was really rated for diesel engines?
On the Pressure regulator/cleaner. Did it take any special parts to rebuild it, or can you wing it with off the shelf parts.
On the Pressure regulator/cleaner. Did it take any special parts to rebuild it, or can you wing it with off the shelf parts.
tatra813
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Im finally getting motivated to work on the Tatra again. I just put a remote powered battery disconnect. I stripped all the wood off of the bed, pulled all the sides and bowes off. Im converting the exhaust to a strait stack going up, I tore the old one off offroad. Im removing the diesel tanks and putting a new tank in the back of the bed, been hitting those tanks off road also.. m stripping the bottom part of the sides and repainting and then I will put the bows back on and cover the top with roll up sides (safari style) Ill post pics.
I don't know on the 10w40 not being rated for trucks, but seeing as the heavy truck garage I changed my oil at had stacks of 10w40 barrels around, Im guessing it's quite common.
The pressure regulator was rebuild with standard parts. Theres nothing very special inside, actually, although I do think there are a few different variants used depending year of construction. Either way, mine consisted of a labyrinth with a cloth/foam filter, a spring operated overpressure valve and a few one way valves. Took it all apart for a good cleaning, greased the valve rubbers, and reassembled with new washers for an air tight seal.
Spend half an hour running from the cab to rear of the truck to correctly set the pressure Easy to adjust with a screw and locking nut, but if theres noone around to help with reading the pressure gauge in the cab, you get to run back and forth a lot!
Putting a straight-up stack gives an awesome sound. I think we stuck a 3.5" (but might have been 4") pipe on there. The sound truly becomes... inspiring, in a manly way
You could hear it inside the cab, which as you know is saying something.
I now have a free-flow muffler in there though, because it had to pass some regulation checks to get a title. It still sounds lovely, just not as excessively loud anymore. The people in the neighbourhood prefer it this way too, so Im guessing I'll just stick with it, or maybe put a bypass valve in there for showing off every now and then.
The pressure regulator was rebuild with standard parts. Theres nothing very special inside, actually, although I do think there are a few different variants used depending year of construction. Either way, mine consisted of a labyrinth with a cloth/foam filter, a spring operated overpressure valve and a few one way valves. Took it all apart for a good cleaning, greased the valve rubbers, and reassembled with new washers for an air tight seal.
Spend half an hour running from the cab to rear of the truck to correctly set the pressure
Easy to adjust with a screw and locking nut, but if theres noone around to help with reading the pressure gauge in the cab, you get to run back and forth a lot!Putting a straight-up stack gives an awesome sound. I think we stuck a 3.5" (but might have been 4") pipe on there. The sound truly becomes... inspiring, in a manly way
You could hear it inside the cab, which as you know is saying something. I now have a free-flow muffler in there though, because it had to pass some regulation checks to get a title. It still sounds lovely, just not as excessively loud anymore. The people in the neighbourhood prefer it this way too, so Im guessing I'll just stick with it, or maybe put a bypass valve in there for showing off every now and then.
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strange kolos or so
Saw this on a very local rural funfair (kermis) last week. They said it was a special version of the Tatra, with two steering axles but only one rear axle. Thought I share it with you.
Saw this on a very local rural funfair (kermis) last week. They said it was a special version of the Tatra, with two steering axles but only one rear axle. Thought I share it with you.
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srodocker
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hey tatra813 hows it going down there. you able to make the PNW convoy this year?
tatra813
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Hey scott
Im going to either make it to the convoy or mogfest....not sure which one yet, it depends on summer scheduling. I just picked up another 813.. great mechanical but needs cab rust work.
Im converting one of my other 813 tatras into a full trials style truck putting a lot of time into it right now, hopefully be done by summer to drive it again. It should be awsome, new bed, bed sides, full exterior rollcage etc.
Im going to either make it to the convoy or mogfest....not sure which one yet, it depends on summer scheduling. I just picked up another 813.. great mechanical but needs cab rust work.
Im converting one of my other 813 tatras into a full trials style truck putting a lot of time into it right now, hopefully be done by summer to drive it again. It should be awsome, new bed, bed sides, full exterior rollcage etc.
tatra813
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Nice....thanks for sharing!!
In case anyone missed it, I drove the tatra around a little, pics and story here:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/military-vehicle-road-trips/68211-tatra-off-roadtrip.html
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/military-vehicle-road-trips/68211-tatra-off-roadtrip.html
AfricanFarmer
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Cool Tatra tread.
Hey love what you done to that Tatra, lots of love. Nice with the yellow.
Im selling my CNC plasma cutter to buy a Tatra -813. Aiming to take it down to Zambia and run it as a mobile safari lodge. And ill do some thing rather daring, im aiming to buy it in Prag then drive it down to Zambia. (IF i can find 6-7000liters of diesel to a well very little price hehe. Hoping that i can find the fuel for maybe 3000€, sounds like it don´t need to be top quality. Kinda hoping to some how find Russian you know cheap diesel. (Shipping the truck from Germany to South Africa is 7000$US and from Belgium to Tanzania, is 8000$US) so was hoping to drive instead.
Any one wanna join in on the ride? Prag to Zambia, could use some of you Tatra owners knowledge. 2-3 weeks of driving
But reading this thread have been very interesting, and just made me lust for taking a Tatra into the bush, seeing lions and elephants and driving seriously off-road AND getting paid for it.. Now that's good I think
SO cheers for a good thread
Now some questions, how hot dos it get in the cab when ur driving in the summer?
And how to get a Tatra more quite? Ok i know that's not what you guys really do, but i thought id ask hehehe. Dont wanna scare off the wildlife.
Hey love what you done to that Tatra, lots of love. Nice with the yellow.
Im selling my CNC plasma cutter to buy a Tatra -813. Aiming to take it down to Zambia and run it as a mobile safari lodge. And ill do some thing rather daring, im aiming to buy it in Prag then drive it down to Zambia. (IF i can find 6-7000liters of diesel to a well very little price hehe. Hoping that i can find the fuel for maybe 3000€, sounds like it don´t need to be top quality. Kinda hoping to some how find Russian you know cheap diesel. (Shipping the truck from Germany to South Africa is 7000$US and from Belgium to Tanzania, is 8000$US) so was hoping to drive instead.
Any one wanna join in on the ride? Prag to Zambia, could use some of you Tatra owners knowledge. 2-3 weeks of driving
But reading this thread have been very interesting, and just made me lust for taking a Tatra into the bush, seeing lions and elephants and driving seriously off-road AND getting paid for it.. Now that's good I think
SO cheers for a good thread
Now some questions, how hot dos it get in the cab when ur driving in the summer?
And how to get a Tatra more quite? Ok i know that's not what you guys really do, but i thought id ask hehehe. Dont wanna scare off the wildlife.
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FLY me over and back, I'll drive with you
AfricanFarmer
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Wish I could but no budget for that
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It was just a thought,
Hello! Diesel is not really the problem, you can get it plenty, and its not that expensive in Africa. However, buying a truck and driving it to Zambia right away is asking for trouble. Not sure where you plan on buying one, but unless you get a fully restored one you will definately run into some heavy maintenance work or face serious trouble on the road. If you get a restored one this is most likely already done for you, but then you will likely run into childhood problems (bolts not tightened properly, engine adjustments, the works). If you get a cheap unrestored one, there is no saying what problems you will run in to.
These are not serious troubles when you have some experience working on the 813, all maintenance and repairs are quite easy and straight forward, if only your toolbox is big enough
Be sure to bring spare tires (which are hard to find) and tools to replace and inflate tires, boxes with all common sized nuts and bolts, spare belts for alternator and compressor, parts to fix air connections, and ofcourse ductape and tie-wraps. Ow and ofcourse a drivers manual, workshop manual, and parts lists. And at least one co-driver to help with the heavy lifting bits, and to keep up the good spirits in tough situations.
AfricanFarmer
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African tripp
Yea good advice. I am aiming to buy a restored Tatra from Mortar investment. I know they have had oh bad recommendations here when it comes to emailing back and so. But i aim to go there in beginning of September and have a talk with them. ID they look sincere then ill go for it. But id ask here where to look for signs that the truck really been fixed upp. Im 50/50 on driving it or having it shipped. Its nice to know i have you guys to ask allot about the Tatra tho
Any one actualy bought any thing from Mortar investments?
Thanks
Yea good advice. I am aiming to buy a restored Tatra from Mortar investment. I know they have had oh bad recommendations here when it comes to emailing back and so. But i aim to go there in beginning of September and have a talk with them. ID they look sincere then ill go for it. But id ask here where to look for signs that the truck really been fixed upp. Im 50/50 on driving it or having it shipped. Its nice to know i have you guys to ask allot about the Tatra tho
Any one actualy bought any thing from Mortar investments?
Thanks
I tried to but as you already mentioned, theyre not too great on customer contact, so I ended up buying parts somewhere else. No other experience with them, have written them off for doing business myself. Ofcourse going there in person is likely to give a completely different view on this.
Signs for the truck being really fixed would be the amount of oil leakage, the condition of the air piping, the slack in the brake cylinders and the thickness and condition of the brake shoes (there are inspection hatches on each brake), also the state of the 100+ grease nipples, and the wear of the belts on compressor and alternator. Plus a ton of other stuff ofcourse.
And don't accept with just checking it at their parking lot, get at least a 50km drive and then check again. I can clean my truck into showroom condition too and no leaks will show... untill it's done a little distance.
Signs for the truck being really fixed would be the amount of oil leakage, the condition of the air piping, the slack in the brake cylinders and the thickness and condition of the brake shoes (there are inspection hatches on each brake), also the state of the 100+ grease nipples, and the wear of the belts on compressor and alternator. Plus a ton of other stuff ofcourse.
And don't accept with just checking it at their parking lot, get at least a 50km drive and then check again. I can clean my truck into showroom condition too and no leaks will show... untill it's done a little distance.