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From fire truck to MTV

chucky

chucky

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aw113sgte said:
Been working on habitat prep, doesn't really make for interesting pictures. Will be putting up wood paneling with an unitrut structure on the inside where I can attach all cabinets, beds, etc. Making for a very strong and modular setup.

Took it out on snowy roads for the first time today. Learned a few things.
1. This thing is heavy and doesn't like to stop super well on hills. It will try to swap ends going down hill - got about 30 degrees sideways when rear brakes locked preferentially over fronts. ABS would prevent this (see note below), but then I couldn't get the snow building up in front of the tires.
2. It's more capable on slippery roads than all my neighbors 2wd vehicles that couldn't climb the hills near us.
3. ABS disengages in every mode except HWY on CTIS controller (ABS light blinks). This may be standard but I haven't seen this mentioned before. I did replace the ABS controller so maybe this one is programmed a little different.
4. C7 uses 0.5gal/hr at normal idle, 1.0gal/hr at high idle - per CAT ET
5. C7 warm-up mode with the pac brake doesn't automatically turn off - it will stay on till radiator fand engages

View attachment 914534View attachment 914535View attachment 914531View attachment 914532View attachment 914533
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How are you mounting the unistrut/walls to sprayed on insulation walls ?
 
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aw113sgte

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chucky said:
How are you mounting the unistrut/walls to sprayed on insulation walls ?
Click to expand...
Top 4 corners are directly bolted to the box though a thermal break, bottom rails lag screwed to plywood floor, along the 18' length at the top there will be tensioning bolts that go through the foam. Will be very structurally strong and minimal disturbance to the insulation.
 
chucky

chucky

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aw113sgte said:
Top 4 corners are directly bolted to the box though a thermal break, bottom rails lag screwed to plywood floor, along the 18' length at the top there will be tensioning bolts that go through the foam. Will be very structurally strong and minimal disturbance to the insulation.
Click to expand...
These floors are really great 1 1/4 bambo i was told so really good anchoring points i was just curious how you were going to keep the walls straight without drilling thru the sides and top of the box ! I started with a one trip 20 footer as well i hope to see more folks experiment with these things ! Keep up the good work !
 
A

aw113sgte

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chucky said:
These floors are really great 1 1/4 bambo i was told so really good anchoring points i was just curious how you were going to keep the walls straight without drilling thru the sides and top of the box ! I started with a one trip 20 footer as well i hope to see more folks experiment with these things ! Keep up the good work !
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I really prefer the shipping container over the fiberglass sandwich stuff. Much tougher, don't have to worry about branches, can mount all sorts of stuff to it due to the strength of the structure. Strong enough to be rollover structure. Steel also seems to just fit better with the military truck ethos.
 
chucky

chucky

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aw113sgte said:
I really prefer the shipping container over the fiberglass sandwich stuff. Much tougher, don't have to worry about branches, can mount all sorts of stuff to it due to the strength of the structure. Strong enough to be rollover structure. Steel also seems to just fit better with the military truck ethos.
Click to expand...
Yes my thoughts as well when i started looking for a box
 
Mullaney

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aw113sgte said:
I really prefer the shipping container over the fiberglass sandwich stuff. Much tougher, don't have to worry about branches, can mount all sorts of stuff to it due to the strength of the structure. Strong enough to be rollover structure. Steel also seems to just fit better with the military truck ethos.
Click to expand...
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You might want to take a look @chucky 's build thread.
There is a world of good information in it...


CHUCKY'S TREE HOUSE !

Just put 5 gallons of 383 on my 1083 camper ! Mixed 4 part 383 1 part laquer thinner and it came out great .There was some concern with the Rapco being to glossy so i used 4 to 1 paint and laquer thinner shot it outside in 80 degree sunshine i shot 5 gallons and not 1 run and thats not because...
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aw113sgte

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Mullaney said:
.
You might want to take a look @chucky 's build thread.
There is a world of good information in it...


CHUCKY'S TREE HOUSE !

Just put 5 gallons of 383 on my 1083 camper ! Mixed 4 part 383 1 part laquer thinner and it came out great .There was some concern with the Rapco being to glossy so i used 4 to 1 paint and laquer thinner shot it outside in 80 degree sunshine i shot 5 gallons and not 1 run and thats not because...
steelsoldiers.com
.
Click to expand...
Oh I have, also why my head isn't squished to a pancake ;)
 
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aw113sgte

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Tried to start the truck today after it's been cold soaking all night and is -9°F. The two 6TLs just didn't have enough to get it done. No engine preheat and 15w40 oil sure made it more difficult. It would crank for about 10 seconds before voltage dropped too low and starter kicked out. It did cough a couple times with the ether injection.
Batteries are new and fully charged. I bet with a battery heater it could have done it, or if it had the extra 2 6TLs.
 
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aw113sgte

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Made some good progress the last two days on the interior wood paneling and framing. The interior heats up super fast with my kerosene heater (just one of those freestanding units) and used roughly half a gallon to keep it warm for 12 hours over the past 2 days (it's been a high of 14°, starting off at about zero in the mornings).20240119_161816.jpg

Still have more insulation to do as well so that will only get better. Had to keep shutting it off because it got sweaty in there. I did make sure I had a carbon monoxide meter when working and kept the door cracked because I had power cables coming in.

Going for the very utilitarian, but with a little bit of wood to keep it nicer than fiberglass or metal. Give me a break I'm no interior designer.
 
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aw113sgte

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Made some progress on the pass though. Door for the habitat side is complete (besides sealing and paint). There will be an intermediary box above the filter, then another door/bulkhead on the cab side. The door in the cab will be right behind the drivers seat and can be accessed without having to fold any seats.

Looks like a face:
20240123_111344.jpg

20240123_145129.jpg20240123_145137.jpg20240123_145215.jpg
 
coachgeo

coachgeo

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aw113sgte said:
Tried to start the truck today after it's been cold soaking all night and is -9°F. The two 6TLs just didn't have enough t...
Batteries are new and fully charged. I bet with a battery heater it could have done it, or if it had the extra 2 6TLs.
Click to expand...
If your going to add 24v winches then yeah for sure go back to 4 batts.. (and appropriate alternator). If not doing 24v. winches (or 12) then spend cost of two more batts on a diesel fired coolant heater system. That would more roundly serve your needs IMHO
 
flyfishtrailer

flyfishtrailer

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aw113sgte said:
Welded up the pass though box, .125" so it's heavy but strong. Trusty old Lincoln flux core welder worked great.

View attachment 915409
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Like what you're doing. So, this will be permanently affixed to the cargo side and have attachment points to remove for cab tilt? Or will it be removable on both sides? Still curious to see how it will work out.
 
A

aw113sgte

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coachgeo said:
If your going to add 24v winches then yeah for sure go back to 4 batts.. (and appropriate alternator). If not doing 24v. winches (or 12) then spend cost of two more batts on a diesel fired coolant heater system. That would more roundly serve your needs IMHO
Click to expand...
Not sure about winch yet, but if I do it will probably be electric.
I'm sure the heater would help some, but unless I heated the batteries I don't know if it would be enough. Was considering a 24v jump pack that could be kept warm.
It's a shame alternators are so dang expensive for these trucks.
 
coachgeo

coachgeo

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aw113sgte said:
Not sure about winch yet, but if I do it will probably be electric.
I'm sure the heater would help some, but unless I heated the batteries I don't know if it would be enough. Was considering a 24v jump pack that could be kept warm.
It's a shame alternators are so dang expensive for these trucks.
Click to expand...
they make coolant battery warmers.... or simple tiny car heater core plumbed into battery area
 
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