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I started with a rear blade and the bucket on the tractor, then got a plow for the front of the tractor. Much better. That was followed by a snowblower for the Winter SEE and an 8-foot snow pusher on the Summer SEE. Definitely a noticeable improvement. Now there's a skid steer to run the...

Palletforks.com has/used to have them. But how do you plow with a bucket? For pushing snow I've found snow pushers far more efficient.

Have you verified that the switch on the clutch pedal makes contact? As I recall, it has to be activated for the splitter to change ranges. Then again, if the starter works, the switch probably does, too. Anyway, I would do/try/verify a LOT of things before tilting the cab.

I've used compressed air to blow any dirt off of the in-tank one. Mostly because on the SEE that has had issues with bacteria, the tank won't come off easily.

Yep, I'd check the strainer, and clean it. Quick and easy, and hopefully that's the problem.

Don't remember if the hoses would still drain or not, but either way I'd pull the reel (and hoses) off and take it to the shop that way. Anyway, if you remove one of the disconnects you'll find out if it'll drain the tank or not.

Nice! I made extension hoses (about 20' long) which not only helps reach places, but takes stress off of the standard hoses. Try that, unless your one hose is already too far gone.

Too late. I did about 25 years ago, but using a coozy instead of PVC. Wait...that probably means the patent has expired.

If you do, in retrospect I should've just bought the cheaper 2-piece setup. Yes, it was a time saver to have the two parts connected, but I could've welded in a piece of tubing of the correct length myself, then removed it.

I'm not so sure it's the regulator, though. For example, yesterday I used the slave cables to jump start it as the voltage showed about 20. Didn't think it would fire, and it didn't. Didn't start the other one, just plugged the cables in. While that should've made the volt meter read a bit...

Thanks. If only the darn thing was reasonably easy to get to.

Reading about scored cylinder walls makes my quest for finding a charging issue seem pleasant in comparison. Took another stab at it yesterday, (still) thinking it could be ground related. Anyway, what happens is that the voltage generally pegs the gauge at or shortly after startup. Quickly...

Okay, flaking is a whole different story compared to pitting. New/better gears it is then.

Thinking more about this one, I would fill the trans with N-Terpinal to get rid of the rust. Unless there's severe pitting, and you plan on putting 50,000 miles on it, I'm guessing it'd work well enough.

It's on the right side of the frame, by the wheel, as I recall. Migginsbros beat me to it.

Thanks, Duecerider. No, the quick tach setup was bought from palletforks.com, then just modified a bit to fit the loader. It was primarily installed to be able to run the snow blower, but is obviously useful for all kinds of attachments.

It looks like they got done with the rehab, but never got to the paint part. Which is fine with me. It came with a surface rusted hood (no paint whatsoever) but I saved that one for an HMMH. The 'glass hood is plenty good for this FLU, and I must've had more green than tan when painting it...

Today I fired up the former Summer SEE, now the main one, to install tire chains while it's still nice out. It just made me very happy to hear it purr. Three of the four cylinders on the backhoe were replaced when I got it, and almost all the hoses. Actually, almost everything on it was it...

Nice! Is that the clean one that sold recently on auction?

For now you could just interrupt the air supply to the axle. I've thought of doing it to both axles anyway, because if I find myself in water that deep I have other problems going on.