Search results

In a cup, with a paint brush, make some good, stable foam with water + kitchen soap and apply around valve stem and other suspicious areas. Check for bubbles growing...

It's the "5209" that defines model & application: 6.5L N/A ,Military Heavy Duty, 1.2 cSt Second pic/pump comes from a rebuilder, most likely.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/hemtt-rims-on-m915-series.42512/post-475145

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m35a3-master-cylinder.23698/ https://www.powerbrake-drivetrain.com/master-cylinder-bendix-bosch-oshkosh-2233867/

:ditto: Also, a bead of PU adhesive sealant is paintable; silicone based products are not....

FWIW, regarding actual dimensions mentioned in that linked post: neither 4" or 4.25" is correct (!) 4.375" will barely fit, so better make it 1/16th larger. And the net width of the 4 "legs" should be 2.0", not less. Too loose fit is not an issue here; too tight is..... Pictured below is what I...

There's only about ½" left in between arm and wheel. And for comparison: stock M35 wheels have ~10.5" backspace.

Depends.... Did you flip the hubs? Maybe post a few pictures of the rears, installed.

Problem is you got the wrong wheels, with too much backspace . If you really wanted aluminum, you need this one: https://militarytires.ca/product/20x10-hutchinson-mrap/?wmc-currency=USD

That.... Feltz has the (correct) 12-bolt steel wheels at $50ea https://feltztire.com/product/mrap-steel-wheel-12-bolt/

Center has 10 chamfered holes on a 11¼" BC. 18 long and 2 short studs. It's your picture in post #4 and 98G's in the following post. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachments/fmtv-wheel-dims-jpg.314292/

Studs should always protrude a couple threads, sticking out of the nut. Both halves of the HEMTT wheel have their own center plate, about 10mm thick. Bolted together it's over ¾", a lot more than the thickness of the stock 5ton wheel center. So the original stud ends up being about ¼" too short.

For better comparison, see the dimensions and details, here...

That's correct. It's a HD 20×10" 20bolt 2pc steel wheel with a 10-on-335mm center, used on some of the MRAP models.

Many ways to accomplish that..... Correct option would be a plate with a step machined to it on its backside, fitting snuggly into the opening of the now modified outer half (cut & turned on the lathe). Easiest (& cheapest) way: a few weld spots on the wheel inside, after confirming that...

No, it's more like 36".

Just pull it out; it doesn't do anything. It's just a residue from when the raw rubber was injected (pressed) into the mold.

For that kind of terrain a "properly outfitted Deuce" wouldn't have skinny street tires. In soft sand your main problem is the weight on the front end. Even deflated, truck wants to go down, not forward! My suggestion: Get yourself a set of 365/80R20 Continental MPT81 mounted on M35A3 wheels...

... Especially since they were all posted the very same day.

Sounds like you are selling your truck (?) If so then please post an ad (with pics) in our classifieds section. (Selling in the open forums is not allowed.)