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That's what I did. I sourced a super rebuilt NP241C from Mark Bendler at Kodiak Truck. Did away with the leaky rear output shaft in favor of one of Tom Woods Slip Yoke Eliminator kits. The 241's are pressure-oiled instead of relying on chain-splash for lubrication.

So does that mean the Chinese LED tail lights from LMC have Rick's Master CUCV Seal of Approval?

Guys my housings are shot and the rubber bulb sockets are hard and brittle. The passenger side taillight/brake light works backwards, even though the wiring is correct. It's time I replaced those things, just wondering if the Chinese LMC units are any better.

Has anybody installed these LED taillight kits from LMC Truck? Are there other LED taillight kits from other sources which may be better quality? LED Tail Light Set (lmctruck.com)

Thanks

I'm restoring/rewrapping my rear harness and can't seem to figure out where in the TM's I need to look to determine what the two wires with stripes do. Brown = taillights, Yellow = left turn/brake, Green = right turn/brake, Light Green = back-up. I get all that, but what do the other two wires...

Hello Ms. RedLegs. Is your husband's CUCV a truck or Blazer?

Guys, BMP Industrial Supply has NEW 27si alternators for $152.82. These are new units, not rebuilt. I had forgotten that I purchased one a few months ago to keep as a spare and can attest that it is excellent. 400-12416 Alternator, 12V, 100A, Delco 27SI, New, Standard (blowermotorsplus.com)...

Wilson 90-01-4277 is a 27si available at NAPA.

I think I have a couple rebuild kits in my parts bin. Let me get to the shop tomorrow and I’ll look and see.

Outstanding post and info. I’ll be watching this thread closely. BTW, I have an excellent Banks filter box if you need it. Pay the freight and it’s yours.

Mr. Barrman. Just a note to say thank you for the information on the radiator. Mine is on order and the folks sent me an email indicating that it would be shipped in a couple weeks. No problem, I replied, as I have been on this project for 12 years. Reading your post above made me wax...

If you haven't already, you may want to clean and grease the rotating joints behind the firewall. If those are rusty, it will slow the cycle speed.

Ha. You are lucky. I've been working on my M1028 since 2010 and my list keeps getting longer.

Thank you. The Sherpa Steed is on its way, and I just hung up with Ben at Engineered Vintage and got the BBWM ordered. Next in line is Blue Sea. Now I just need to find the time to get everything done!

OK I am finally ready to get back on my rebuild after a serious operation last June and a long recovery/recuperation. A quick update - The P400 / 700R4 / NP241 is still on my engine stand. The aircraft pre-oiler pump has been plumbed with the suction line attached to the passenger-side of the...

Thanks. I plan to add two Blue Sea terminal blocks anyway to power all my stuff (one for 12-volt and another for 24-volt), so I will simply add one of the same fuses to my order. I will appreciate it if you will provide the Blue Sea part number. Never mind, I clicked on the link in your post...

Thanks everybody for your comments. I have decided to follow Skinny's suggestion and add a manual dual port valve to switch between the two tanks. Groco offers a FV-6-5038 bronze 6-port marine valve which will also switch the return lines. Perfect. I will mount the valve under the cab with...

I'm on Sherpa's website now preparing my order. I plan to order the same unit as you did. Question - did you order the 500 amp fuse & fuse-holder?

I'm in the process of installing an auxiliary fuel tank on the passenger side of my M1028 and am considering a different way of plumbing the two tanks. While thinking about the valving and switching between the two, I wondered why the two tanks couldn't simply be plumbed together for one...