Search results

I had a light that stayed on as well, but it would function normally when the blinker operates. I traced it to a burnt part of the pcb board behind the dash

I pulled out a gigantor tree trunk out with mine! Didnt even stutter after cutting the roots

Rumbelina sounds like a fat bearded woman who eats alot and smells bad... perfect cucv match!

Carriage bolts suck! I usually put the impact on them in "tighten" mode and attempt to break the bolt rather than backing it out.

Not backing out this time! Either weekend is good for me!

yes!! you will never be able to get all of the air out in car, the pedal will not do the full stroke of the mc like bench bleeding.

What are you guys/girls getting on fuel economy? My old 1009 was about at 18 mpg in town and 20 on highway @ 65-75 mph. The newer 1008 I have which is stock except for a NA 6.5 motor gets 9 MPG Highway at 60 mph.

No problems in suburbia here- I start it up, lug it into 3rd gear and slump it down the street without making too much noise.

If its a 4L60 I would just go with a 700r4, 4L80 on the other hand.. Its actually pretty easy to make them shift into gears on command, it just requires jumping the power to the two shift solenoids in certain sequences.

Toss it in! I ran a heavy gear oil blend thru a 6.2 before, it just smelled worse than usual but supports the idea that these old diesels will burn almost anything

If the pedal goes to the floor its probably not a hydroboost issue, rather the hydraulics itself. Is there any leaks anywhere? Are you sure the brakes are bled properly? FYI pressure in the rear system is what makes up the pedal feel in the system, ive seen a soggy weak brake system caused...

good choice!

Mine used to do this- it got worse until the light stayed on all the time and eventually stopped charging. I opted to have the entire unit rebuilt- worked well since

Thank you for the great tip! This is how I had them secured before :D

After reading up on it, it sounds like a great idea but only if you are willing to maintain the unit after a rebuild. Im keeping this one in mind twenty years from now when the truck starts sha-shakin again

you will need a 6 point hub removal socket, available at autovat for rent

dont forget a screwdriver to jump the GP relay! but in all seriousness, if you need to drive a 20+ year vehicle a long distance, a 1009 really is a great choice reliability wise- its made to turn highway speeds with that 3.08 gear ratio.

Ive owned & driven both 12V and 24V CUCV's and the 24V is wayyyy better. Even with the extra alternator and slightly more expensive starter.

You can connect to the rear battery - (neg) post to safely get 12V+ right? Its essentially the same as the + (Pos) terminal on the front battery

Im about to slap on a couple of layers of underhood insulation under the hood next week, ill post how it goes.