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Thanks, I'll have to keep an eye out for a set. I'd still be happy to make some rear anchor block hooks for you. I can either make a template to line them up on the block or tack or weld them to a block if you want to ship the sides to me. Beyond Biodiesel, if you want a set of the 1/4"...

You'll need 24v bulbs provided the truck is still stock. I think the bulb number should be a 1251 but you should open them up and check to make sure. It will be cheaper to order then online vs. ordering them at the parts store. Also welcome to the site.

The smaller light is probably the blackout stop light so that only comes on when you brake. They should all have bulbs you can change easily.

I'd definitely keep an eye out for the original blocks. I'm still going to get the trunnion info next time I have the poles down, I've been using them quite a bit lately. Any chance you could post some pictures of the original boom chains sometime? I'd be interested in seeing the pear...

Welcome to the site. That looks like a nice truck. However... if I'd ever pay 14k for a CUCV (and I wouldn't) it would at least be an m1028 with the limited slip in the front end. It definitely wouldn't still have a 6.2 NA diesel or a 3 speed turbo 400 either. I think I'd also want the NATO...

Sheeting Reflective 20cm x 20cm. NSN 9390-01-382-8308. Most people call them delineator panels.

Any decent truck shop can make you some new u-bolts, usually for cheap. I think I paid $15 each for the last ones I had made locally. You can move the springs to under the axle, a number of people have done that as well with good results.

Bridge trucks have different wheels than a regular 5 ton. If you want to run 14.00x20s dualed then you’ll want the wheels, spacers, and the long wheel studs. Your truck will be 1 foot too wide to go down the road without an oversize permit. If you want to run them as singles I’d recommend...

If you do end up with I've got the correct taillight brackets. I had to cut one up last year for parts for my short wheelbase dump truck. As far as what it's worth that's a tough question. If it was running and I was buying it I'd prefer to be in the 2-3k range. Another $500 more wouldn't...

It looks to have all of the correct tractor parts except the taillight brackets which is nice. Non turbo with a sprag t-case. They’re cool and not super common but they typically always bring less money than a cargo truck.

Same bolt pattern but the dish is deeper on these wheels than on the m101/m37 wheels.

That's not a stock alternator. How long have you had this truck? What voltage are the batteries at when you test them individually? Maybe they've got a 12 volt alternator hooked up to just one battery.

The paint scheme will match the m756a2. Gillespie 24087 paint with army markings, stars, etc. The quarter fender had blue paint on it but the mounting brackets for it didn't. At this point it's almost impossible to tell what parts are original and what has been changed over the last 64...

It's been a while since I've done any work on the 2.5 ton dump so I figured I better make some progress now that the weather is decent. Drove it out front and started sanding and priming the back half of the frame, as well as the quarter fenders and brackets. My plan of using 3 other trucks...

Well the book doesn’t actually say but I would guess it’s 2520-00-835-8352 which also shows up as an m135 on a google search. The book has all the truck numbers except for the m135s for some reason.

Yep, the last 7 digits of the ORD number is what we needed. The NSN for an m135 without winch is 2320-00-835-8351. For some reason in the 1955 TM the data plates for all the models except the m135 have the ord numbers on them.

NSNs didn’t show up until the 1970s if I remember right. The correct format for an NSN is xxxx-xx-xxx-xxxx so the numbers you listed are missing some digits if they’re even the right ones. There probably will be 2 different NSNs for m135s, one number for the truck with winch and one for the...

The Green Mountain Military Vehicle Club's annual rally will be held on July 6th and 7th in Waterbury, VT. Camping with a military vehicle $10 Camping without a military vehicle $20 Vendor's space $30 While the show is Friday and Saturday the field will be open Thursday and Sunday for the...

I will do that when I get a chance to fold the gin poles in. It probably wouldn’t be too difficult to build something that will work alright even if it looks a little different.

Yeah I would pass at $500. I think I paid around $200 for the whole assembly I bought. Not terrible considering the price of the shock absorbers as of late. It's hard to see in my picture but the DRASH hitch also has plate welded on either side in addition to the gussets for the channel.