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Is using the factory m1008 wheels a good/bad idea? Do I need wheel spacers to use 35x12.5x16 on the factory wheels? As I'm wrapping up the axle swap I'm preparing to buy tires and I'd like to get the wheels figured out first. I'd hate to buy all that rubber only to find out the factory wheels...
I wanted to update this thread with a tid bit of info. The part number DS893 above will work in a blazer but it is NOT meant for the dana 60. It is a MOOG part meant for surbabns, K20s, blazers, etc.
It is too long to fit in the Dana 60s.
If you ended up in this thread looking for Dana 60...
I definitely would have liked 410 gears but these are cucv axles so I'm getting 456. It'll be nice when in the hills though!
And as a bonus I found an unexpected traclok in the front axle
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Well I did some research and it looks like a lot of blazers will need a 1350/S44 conversion u joint. This would be a Spicer 5-3205X.
Its incoming from ebay and it I am wrong I will update this post for future reference.
Understood. I got what you were saying as soon as I went back to the tm, that's why I edited my previous post. I do appreciate you, recovery4x4, answering my question.
Hi
im doing a brake job and I noticed there are two different part numbers for the rear wheel brake cylinder in the tm. How can I decide which one is correct for me?
m1008
I think it would depend a lot on what type of springs and shocks. The cost of materials is directly related to the final cost of the job.
My 4'' tuff country front springs were $400 for both sides and 4 shocks were $175 for a total of $575. Leaving them appx $225 in labor which seems about right.
Do you guys have any pointers on how to remove the existing spring perches on the 14b and how to choose location for the new ones?
Heres a pic of how I moved it into the carport to work on it.