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I'm in the same boat and I'll be pulling mine apart tomorrow...Should have some new sockets and bulbs in the mail by tomorrow AM...

Thanks, Recovry4x4…..I’m thinking the electrical system is the Achilles heal for laypeople and DIYers… 2cents But, I do agree that this will be a welcomed upgrade… Anyway, as far as a synopses goes, one can just follow through the thread to see how I did it. I guess I’ll just sum up some...

So, I had a meltdown...In a very tired and frustrated stupor, I connected my orange 20 ga fusible link wire on gen 2 to the same lug as the red wire w/ white stripe---AGAIN. Smoke and fireworks ensued. aua Replaced ALL of the fusible links (bought wire in bulk and made my own according to...

This is a good one for relay basics... https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb2.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwi985bK5p3LAhXDyT4KHdnLCtMQFgghMAI&usg=AFQjCNED-mGD2IeS69xCcVbWXgugfm9XUA&sig2=rvXc9NXTVA2IvqrF6-YY9A

Darn it... I wired it wrong too. It wasn't supposed to have the negative connected to it. Now my Gen 1 light went out with my blower motor... Yay--more stuff to figure out... My Mom always said I don't ever lean anything unless it's the had way... Chalk it up to a learning g opportunity, I...

Here are some pics... Synopsis on the way, and, here's the video link as well... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nM0RkXsFneA

Free rebuild kit for me....Gen 2 light still doesn't come on. So, today, I read, and read, and read some more since it was cold out and I really didn't want to go outside. I did however find a little something yesterday when it was 62 degrees out. What the heck is it??? It's on the passenger's...

I was WRONG. They looked the same size as the old REAR shocks...Problem solved. Checked with Rancho sizes and measured the ones that came off (what I should have done in the first place) and came up with RS5118s for the rear (what they told me I needed for the front) and RS5151s for the front...

Ill check in the morning when I start working on it again...

Geez...well about 2 weeks after my last post here, my driver's side rear axle broke, so, the beast has been parked until I figured THAT little problem out. I've been posting to my thread Front end/Rear end swap as I work on it... As for the electrical--a friend of mine said I likely fried the...

Ordered them for an '84 K5... I checked and it said they were the same fit for a '90 V2500 Suburban, Chevy K10, and a few others...Maybe that's what I get for ordering from Advanced Auto Parts.... They look the same length as what I took out, just beefier...

Finished up the front end and got the rear end dropped last night. Tonight (if it stops raining) I'm hoping to pull the drive shaft, change the u-joint, and get the 'new' rear end in place, ready to bolt up when the u-bolts and plates arrive. On the front end, if you look at the pics, the...

Used the old bolts for the front. Here's a few more pics. Hoping to get to the rear end tomorrow...

More to come....If you look on the right, you can see the steering arm that was on this front end--that's the one I changed out...

Sorry it's been a few days...Just started a new job. Couple that with girl's basketball games... Anyway, got the new drag link ends and sleeve together (and on the truck now). Got the front end lowered, out, and new installed. I did it without any help since, well--I didn't have any available...

No way...Doesn't the M1008 have 14 bolt FF? On that note, are the front and rear different in the M1009? I thought the yokes were the same, both being 10 bolt. Sigh...I'll figure it out...good learning experience..

Another GM site says that the corporate 10 Bolt, with respect to CUCVs. had either 3R OR 1310 drivelines with no explanation of how to tell which is which...Gonna have to get cold and go measure, I guess...

Pulled this from another thread where a gentleman 'grenaded' his stock rear end u joints and yoke. He was talking about "upgrading" from the stock 3R to a 1310 yoke. This was the response... "1310 joint itself is actually weaker then the original. Only has 1 1/16" caps instead of the original 1...

That's probably the simplest way to do it...

Sooo, got the Control arm/steering rod issue solved--I cut off as much of the cotter pins as I could, put a combo wrench on the castle nut, got out my BFH, and pounded it until it spun loose. I did it on both ends and they came off no problem. Pounded the drag links out on each end, and, BINGO...