Search results

Those numbers are "almost" correct... FWIW, the nominal rim width is 8.25" and the total width measures ~9.61". Having a backspace of almost 7" (6.97") the resulting offset is +2.17" or +55mm. See this post....

No, not compatible at all... There simply is not enough room for a 6352, it's almost twice the size (and weight) of the 3053. It also has a larger input shaft and output propeller flange. Most likely you will find your 5th gear with one- or more broken teeth.

... and while engaged, how deep does this one go into the flexplate? I wouldn't be so happy with a contact pattern of only 1/2 of the width on the ring gear teeth - even if it starts (and sounds) perfectly normal, every time.

Here you can see all the (revised and correct) bearing numbers for our Spicers... Read further down in that thread to learn about the details for bearing "DD".

That pin keeps the sleeve for 5th gear from rotating on the mainshaft. Look for a wear mark in between two splines; that's where the head goes.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/flipping-the-hubs.81572/ https://www.xm381.com/How_To/Hub_Flip.html

Yes, stock M34/m135 wheels, which have about 1" less backspace compared to your typical M35 wheel, or in other words they increase your track width by ~2".

I agree. And careful with the 14.5 XLs, or any other MPT-type tires: They are not compatible with stock M35- or Canadian Deuce MLVW wheels! Its not so much about the required wheel width; rather the bead section that doesn't match.

It's there already, in our own library: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/GTA-9-1-1851-8.pdf

That's correct. Anything negative means the mounting surface is inward from the wheel centerline. See my drawing in post #11: that wheel has an offset of +55mm - which is a lot compared to commercial/ aftermarket wheels of the same size and pattern.

Yes. And it should not be this link that limits the travel to the fully up-position. There are stop brackets welded for that purpose, on both sides of the seat. I guess what really matters is the C-C distance between bolts: measured 9.5" and 13.4", respectively.

https://www.threadtoolsupply.com/1-4-28-sae-lt-straight-grease-fitting-steel-yellow-zinc-plated.html

See this post: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/wheels-and-tires-aftermarket.210945/post-2464642

Moved thread.

Contact @gimpyrobb, he has those TC (NIB) and I'm sure he would sell you one for a very reasonable price.

I don't think so; the solenoid core spring will absorb much more than that wear. During operation, while engaged, the bendix pinion will rest against the stop collar, held there by the (spring-loaded) fork. Some wear at those fork knobs is inevitable. That's why we put some moly grease in that...

It's all here: TM 9-2320-280-34, Chapter 6-6. STARTER REPAIR

That bendix should have come out easily. Did you not remove the pin (#10), where the fork pivots?

Just compare the number of bolts on both wheels.... (And there are many more reasons, for the answer being a big NO.)

Sadly it's not a bolt-on,; we all have tried that...…. but somehow those 6 studs on the M35 hub (BC = 8.75") don't seem to match the 10 holes of the FMTV wheels (BC = 11.25")....:razz: