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:ditto: what Mogman said... To me, that bendix has seen much better days... They aren't that expensive, so I would definitely install a new replacement, before reassembly. Besides that I'm wondering why that stop collar has to be so thick? That looks like at least 1/2" (?) If this was mine...

With -18mm offset those will stick out even further than the ones I linked to, in post #4. Ideally, we want something around +50mm (positive offset), but I doubt that such do exist. Regarding their hub bore, 122.1mm is OK. 122.0mm is what I just confirmed, on the stock wheels.

165.1 mm = 6.5 inches Actually none.... This wheel has the most backspace but it's still only 5", instead of the stock 7". That means that the tire/wheel will stick out at least 2 inches. At 122.4 mm its hub bore might be too small, too. (will confirm tomorrow).

No, you need wheels with a 8-on-6.5" pattern. And the backspace of the stock wheels is 7 inches, FYR.

We never heard of it - and probably never will... Really, for me that would be the absolute last thing to do, from a long list of possible improvements for these engines. At the top of my list is correct balancing of all internals! (before someone asks...)

OK, enough of this! We don't need to see what you see, just because you choose to save $15 a year... Please contact our Admin directly via PM, about this matter.

Reason is, good NOS lock washers have been available for all these years, so no need to tool-up for replicas... That may have changed lately, since I see a lot of junk parts being offered on eBay. If enough interest I'd have no problem making a drawing with exact dims and post it here. Edit...

Exactly. It takes a 6202 LLU (30*62*16, sealed). BTW, MF cranks are all the same, for the various models. Not so the flywheels.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m35-early-timken-vs-rockwell-differences.210404/#post-2457731

Your MRAP wheels have the DOT stamp, too. And you aren't modifying anything on the wheel itself....

You want the ones stamped "973", with the red color ring.

The plate will deform or bend long before those 10 bolts rip out. But hey, use 1" bolts, if it makes you feel safer. Just let's not forget: all these modifications are OK for "off road use only".......

Thanks, hope it helps... (I just edited your post to add the missing, lower portion of my drawing) Actually any machinist should be able to make these adapters, having only that PDF file.

Here is one (low-cost) option, using 3/4" hardware.....

While you are in, there... Replace that inner axle shaft; find one that is complete, WITH washer (!); Check the surface of the shaft for wear, where the seal lip rides; Get the correct seal retainer - or modify the existing; Replace the oil seal.

That's correct. Let me find my post about it... Meanwhile.... Yes, the seal retainers for both early style, CV-joint axle shafts have an integral rim, with a copper/brass thrust washer (P/N 7521763), press-fitted to it. The U-joint shafts come with their own steel spacer/washer, pressed-on...

That particular TM you posted is for the HIAB Model 8108/8108-2 material handling crane, which came on the M985E1 HEMTT, only. The M977 MHC is covered in the HEMTT (#279) manuals: TM 9-2320-279-10; TM 9-2320-279-20 and TM 9-2320-279-24P-2

Correct, 10 lug holes on 335mm. And if we are talking about the steel wheels, they actually are called 12-bolts, since both halves are held together with those 12 (massive) M22*1.5 bolts/nuts: And this is how they look like (with 395/85R20s) on a M35A2: Cheapest I've found so far...

Really? What does a hydraulic pump do in an air-assisted system?

Moved.