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Maintenance and parts manual for M1022A1, dolly set: lift, transportable shelter, 4-wheel, 7½-ton -- (pub. APR 1996, last changed OCT 2006)

TMs for the M969A2, semitrailer, 5000 gallon tank: fuel dispensing, automotive, 2-axle/8-wheel -- (pub. JUN 1996)

OPERATOR’S, ORGANIZATIONAL, DIRECT SUPPORT, AND GENERAL SUPPORT MAINTENANCE MANUAL (INCLUDING REPAIR PARTS AND SPECIAL TOOLS LISTS) For M353 chassis, trailer: general purpose, single axle/2-wheel, 3½-ton (NSN 2330-00-542-2831) -- (MAR 1992)

Maintenance manual for the M1000, heavy equipment transporter trailer (HETT), 10-axle/40-wheel, 70-ton -- (pub. NOV 1994, last changed SEP 2001)

I know for sure that that one won't fit, as is. Look closer at the teeth of the input gear; they are straight cut. We need a helical gear, there. (Specs, below....)

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/deuce-steering-gear.171339/post-2051798

Nice pics Greg, but maybe you should read post #4 again... The question wasn't about rebuilding a PTO, but precisely if on a WND-7-28 you could simply swap the rear accessory drive for a bearing cap (cover), like the WN-7-28 uses. To that you replied: So obviously we want to learn what all it...

Have you ever done it? Maybe you can explain to us tree shade mechanics what exactly is involved...?

Not so; it was the other way around: early trucks all had roller bearings there... (Until someone realized this was/is a design flaw...) These roller bearings just aren't built for a low amplitude oscillating motion. The lubricant doesn't get pushed around enough and micro-fretting between...

Usually those bolts are rusted in place and won't budge with common tools - unless you had a torch and heat the area to almost red.

You may have noticed already that the housing is slotted both sides, so that when you tighten those bolts it actually clamps both lower spring leaves, thus eliminating any possible lateral play, there. So yes, ideally those two bolts should be loosened before removing the spring pack - although...

Pretty sure gear oil made its way into the hub(s). Suspect the outer seals and/or whatever you used to plug the keyway. Those inner (cup)seals really aren't designed to hold oil. And grease alone wouldn't cause that leak.

You mean stuff like bearing grease? I would never recommend that...!

Yes, they sure do. And they have the beadlocks, too. 10-on-11.25" pattern, 20 bolts/nuts, 1st and 4th to the left of the valve are shorter (for the CTIS valve & hardware). Note that the first wheel at least is missing its valve stem. Just make sure you get the correct ones. (HALTEC turret...

Oops... really....??:oops: Naw, it's not my speciality. I'd better leave that for the professionals.... All it took is a bit of photoshopping, to remove some stains.

Please no, it's not necessary; don't waste your time! I was just joking about that fingerprint; it is very easy for me to make it disappear. Will post the PDF file, later tonight. Edit: Attached PDF....

Got it, thanks! Is this your personal, secret "watermark"? Should it appear/remain in the PDF, also.....? :giggle:

Lol... I sure meant the full size picture, not the plate itself... gringeltaube@gmail.com

OK, much better, Mike. Still, I would like to see that original, for comparison (and possibly convert to PDF). Can you please email it to me?

Being a picture, it's blurry and hard to read, even blown-up to 300%. Maybe that same chart does exist somewhere in PDF-format? What about that trailer's corresponding TM?