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Yea that brings up a point, if you had it in your primary filter and it was running rough, it obviously filled the secondary filter enough to reach the gallery. that could explain the dirty exhaust when you revved it up And pulled more fuel(and coolant) thru the second filter… the very least...

If you disconnect the line to that wheel AT the dump valve beside the transmission, you should be able to blow air into the tire thru the hoses and hub just like CTIS does using a blow gun. when you remove the blowgun the line should vent briefly as the pressure drop closes the wheel valve… if...

Or park the truck pointing uphill, let it set for a bit and use a siphon with a straw to vacuum the coolant off the bottom rear edge. Its a flat bottom tank, so you may get more of it out this way.

And if you had a cylinder or 2 that were misfiring, it may also have had buildup that will take a bit to burn of with normal combustion…

Well the engine isn’t really loaded, and it probably wasn’t up to full op temp right? The plumbing on the A0 keeps them from warming up properly until the transmission becomes a heat source as they send all the bypass coolant to the trans cooler instead of back thru the engine like cat designed...

Well you need to clear the tank as well. These things only burn a fraction of the fuel they move, so contaminants in the tank would pretty quickly re-circulate thru the system. This should show up as more coolant in the bowl…

Yes, antifreeze/coolant is not fuel, so you need to drain the tank and get the coolant out. water in diesels has a nasty habit of damaging components in the fuel system, even to the point of blowing the injector tips off when it flashes to steam in the hot injector nozzle/tip… hope this is not...

You say you have a power issue, have you confirmed the basics first like baseline fuel pressure and boost pressure, or if the aneroid is actually working before hacking it out? You could have weak primary fuel, weak turbo or leaking boost somewhere, and the aneroid is just fine... They...

Ok. I think i understand. Anytime the truck side of the wheel valve has more than ~5PSI on it, the wheel valve is open. When CTIS finishes a cycle, it vents to atmosphere and the presdure drop below 5 at the wheel valves closes them. This sounds like you have a restriction on that one wheel...

Please clarify what "constantly pumping air to the front passenger tire" means. CTIS PCU has a single output that feeds all tires simultaneously, via a dump vslve for each axle. The dump valve feeds both tires on its axle equally...

The bottom bracket is supposed to have grooves in it that match up with teeth on the flattened end on the arm, and held in place by that spring and bolt. If you clean them up and perhaps restore the teeth, it may set in place better, but as suggested, torque em down… been looking for a better...

well you could adjust the drag link between steering box and left wheel, but might be easier to pull and re-align the steering wheel… whats moving the arm or the mirror head? Not a fan of the pivots and breakaway config on the arms, but if you look closely at the top of the door, you will see...

I was once accused of being a cheap SOB(very politely) on this forum for advocating a switch from the "military proven" 4 batteries, to only two "undersized" group 31s...:) This is one of those rare occasions that come along in life, where doing the right thing actually costs less money...

Replace all 4 with 2. AGMs demand nearly double the current from the alt That wet cells call for. And the original 4 wett cells were already too much for the dual volt alt. It is basically a pair of 50A alts. 4 of the 6T wet cell batts are looking for 60A, 4 of the 6t batts in AGM are looking...

Are we talking a separate house battery bank or are you talking about mixing lithium and lead in the service battery bank? If the latter, no, the alt is designed to act as a balancer, assuming you have a 12-24 series battery capable of achieving balance. Different size/capacity or chemistry...

‘Those who do not learn from history are forever doomed to repeat it” :)

The troubleshooting guide says it needs to be above 21v… have no idea if it will work below that…

The 3116, 3126 and C7 all use the same 4” full Marmon turbo outlet. Yep, its a balance between flow, orifice size and spring. The one I fell into is actually a model intended for a C7 so will probably have to do a little tuning As the 3126/C7 has ~10% more displacement/flow At a giver]n RPM...

I just procured a PRXB4, so looks like I will be working this out on my WTEC2:)

Well thats about 4v low. What did 12v read? It having lights on the reg, indicates it has enable power applied. That is the forward screw terminal. Measure it, it needs to be at least 21v. It gets applied by K11 once the engine has proper oil pressure. Its probably OK. That being said...