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Maybe the plastic shear pin is broken / missing?

Have all the other grounds been cleaned, at the other lights, radiator core support, etc?

Well... and the GP relay... :-)

Ok, wow, that is a tight fit there. Thank you for posting the picture. I don't suppose there is anyway to rotate the entire fitting on the end of the valve? I've not tried to take one of those apart, so don't know if that would work. Looking forward to hear from members who have done this swap!

Pictures?

If the return line, or its check valve, is blocked, or pinched as in the TM, it will create back pressure which will keep it from running.

Might give that a try first. Other posts/threads I've read seem to say that that will improve it greatly.

Did you add the foam mentioned in other threads about replacement heater cores to fill the gaps the thinner core creates?

Those things you mentioned are all on the same circuit... Well, except the speedo...

Nothing...

Fuel pump? Do you mean lift pump or injection pump?

Now that looks like fun!

From what I see in the drawing of the PO's wiring, it looks like the relay was being energized with 24v. If so, are you using the same switch? If so, and that switch was not rated for it, it might not be working anymore.

nopics

Really? How? If the GP relay is getting its supply voltage from a 12v source, even if the NATO slave port is used, I don't see how they can get 'over voltage'... if that were the case, then the rest of the 12v system in the truck would be susceptible as well. In addition, the GP controller card...

Even the TM's state that the throttle may need to be 'blipped' to get the GEN1 light to go off, so I wouldn't sweat it too much. As I recall, this is about par for the course for vehicles of that era, even when new.

No idea on what caused it. Perhaps now is a good time to remove the GP resistor bank and power the GP relay with 12v from the 12v buss right next to it.

Just and observation, but that is not a resistor in the stock starter relay, it is a diode. I believe its purpose is to prevent feedback of the current generated when the relay is disengaged and the magnetic field in its coil collapses.

DH makes a good point about disconnecting the batteries before doing this conversion. It is *very* easy to short out that 24v wire and burn out one or more fusible links. I think it would be a good idea to get a voltmeter and start testing connections on the relay, both key off and key in crank...

Use compressed air to blow out any debris around the glow plugs before removal, to keep the junk from falling down the glow plug hole. May also want to hit the glow plug threads with some PB Blaster or similar a day or so before doing the job. They usually come loose easily, but you never know...