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Have you looked at the LO? ( Lube Order ) Should be in the TM section of the site.

If the data plate on the door is missing, you might be able to decode the VIN number against the table in the CUCV FAQ thread.

There was another thread here some time ago where a member found an unbalanced rear brake drum to be the cause of his problems. If I recall correctly, he took the drums to a tire shop, and had them put on the tire balancer to check them.

Um, in a stock system, only the starter, glow plugs and slave port are 24v. The rest of the truck is pretty much 12v, like any civy Blazer. There is 24v going to the volt meter, and the passenger-side alt does output 24v in reference to ground, and 24v shows up in a few spots in the fuse panel...

There is a sticky at the top of the CUCV forum that has helpful threads in it, and one covers the fusible links, start there.

They are just 3-pin Weather Pack connectors, one male one female. Some autoparts stores carry them as pigtails.

If the regulator needs to be replaced, I'd say rebuild the whole thing while you're in there. I'd hate to have to tear it all apart again because the diode trio failed or the brushes wore out and I hadn't replaced them when I replaced the regulator 2 months ago... Do it right, do it once. It...

Test the voltage on both large terminals of the GP relay when the wait light is on. It is not uncommon for the contacts in the relay to get carboned up, and no longer pass enough juice to the glow plugs.

My guess would be the throttle shaft seals were / are leaking, which usually runs down the valley and out the drain hole at the bottom of the bell housing. I don't see how this would be affected by the fuel level in the tank, so I'd look to a vent issue for the full tank vs almost empty tank...

Your 'click click click' symptoms sound just like a bad battery. When they were tested, I presume a load tester was used. If so, then I would probably want to replace them, at least so that they matched. However, I would think that if they passed the load test, then they should be enough to...

That is what I was thinking, though I wonder if there is a time window, or what. So, then if I'm logged in, have read everything I wanted to read, and then walk away for a few hours while staying logged in, and then come back and hit the 'New Posts' button, will I get everything new from the...

I have to say that I somewhat fall into this category... though I prefer the look of them with the windshield down/off, and I don't even want to consider the hard tops...

I've noticed something odd, and was wondering how the 'New Post' button logic works. If I log into SS, and then get involved in other things without doing anything with the SS page other than logging in, and then at some point later click the 'New Posts' button, I only get a fraction of the new...

Never mind... already covered in another post... Move along, nothing to see here. These are not the droids you are looking for...

I think the idea behind putting the rod in the freezer is that the grease put on it to hold it in place will stay firm longer, keeping the rod from moving.

Be sure to disconnect the batteries! It is very easy to short out the always hot 24v wire connected to the volt gauge!

No worries Warthog, I saw your suggestion that he create his own thread, and completely agree. I just thought it was funny / ironic that I had just mentioned the issue of the GEN 1 ground cable being connected properly. In the end, what really matters is that the problem gets fixed. :-)

Thought I'd read this somewhere before... :whistle: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?38019-M1008-Killing-REAR-battery&p=1683628&viewfull=1#post1683628

CDR = tuna can looking thing on the right side valve cover, regulates air pressure in the crankcase, sort of like a PCV valve but not the same IP = Injection pump I'm thinking that it would take a lot of oil buildup in the bell housing to make it into the starter, and would also think it would...

Have you checked the CDR valve? If it is bad, an over-pressure condition can occur in the crankcase, pushing oil past the rear main seal. The seal probably needs to be replaced in any case, just wanted to cover all the bases. Hmm... on that note, could it have been diesel? The valley drains...