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You can download the Army TMs for the truck from the Army's LOGSA site for free. They are in PDF format. Don't worry about logging in or anything. Just click 'I accept' on the first page and then 'Enter the site' on the second. https://www.logsa.army.mil/etms/online.cfm You are looking for...

From an earlier thread: CarQuest carries a ReadyRad 432098 which is supposed to be an exact match. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/16209-where-can-i-get-radiator-replacement-2.html Later, Joe

It's the Registration number... to compare, my CUCV fleet has the following reg numbers: 86 1009 - NFOJEK 85 1008 - NG1Q3C 84 1009 - NFO3F5 My 86 1009 has the reg number painted on the bottom of the driver's door. Both of the others do not, but the Reg number is the last stamped number set on...

It's the Army registration number. Same number follows the vehicle throughout its life, even when it changes units. Kinda like a CA license plate... LOL Later, Joe

Any Blazer rim will work as a spare, it just won't match. I'd just hit one of the truck parts places in Denver and grab a 6 lug wheel with a tire on it for $50 and call it good. Good luck on your trip. Later, Joe

Take a multimeter and check for continuity between the ground lug and the metal body of the alternator. Dollars to donuts the rebuliders did not make it isolated ground. 12V vehicles do not require an isolated ground and are grounded through the case and mounting hardware. If you didn't tell...

Well, it has a check ball inside it that is to keep the system from bleeding down while it sits. I would say blow some brake/carb cleaner through it from both directions to see if it is moving and if you can blow some junk out of it. Later, Joe

Still need help with this? PM me if you do. Later, Joe

That's what I did, I bought two matching sets of weatherpack connectors from NAPA and made my own T that goes between the factory plugs, easy peasy and works just fine with no damage to the Mil plug or truck's wiring harness. And yes, those blue 'parasites' are the devil... I avoid them at all...

Two ways to get it open: There is a lever with a little wheel on it about halfway down the tailgate center divider, that is the switch that prevents opening the gate without the window down. Push that in and the latch should work. The other way is to grab the two op rods and pull them towards...

9-4940-562-13 and 9-4940-562-23P are the two manuals for the CUCV SECM body. They are still classified as Distro C so they are not approved for public release on the LOGSA site. If you have a copy and would like to share, PM sent. Later, Joe

The kit consists of: 1 Dana 70 rear axle with 4.56 gears and a Detroit Locker 2 Dana 60 front hubs with dually offset 2 dually fenders with lights and wiring 2 templates to cut bed sides for dually fenders 1 rear sway bar and mounting hardware 7 dually wheels 4 wheel alignment plates 32 lug...

According to the TCTO, the Army MWO was to be performed to enhance off road stability with the heavier Comm shelters. The Army MWO included templates to cut the fenders and drill the holes for the fender mounting. I would assume that to cut corners and get the vehicles back online as soon as...

The problem with this is that there is a voltage sense line to the controller card and constant 24V will fry it and other components on the card over time. If you could figure out how to install a resistor to drop the 24V to 12V only for that sense wire, then you could follow your plan. Later, Joe

I don't know why the door tags are not the 1031, my guess would be that they would change it too. I have been looking for the MWO so I can see how they did it. In order to change a 1028 to a 1028A1, you would have to change the transmission, transfer case, transfer case shift linkage, rear...

I would assume that the part was discontinued at one point (probably at the 10 year point), but the govt supply system requested that they reinstate it. Later, Joe

1) Common problem with the filter bases, the seals on the sensors get old and leak. You can get a new one from OEM Surplus: Chevrolet Car Parts Surplus 2) Dunno, mine doesn't work either... LOL 3) You probably broke the clutch inside the handle. It's going to be a pain in the arse to repair...

The 1028A1 is an MWO to convert an M1031 cab and chassis to a regular pickup. The 1029 is a fictional number that I made up for my CUCV Suburban... I've heard other numbers like 1007 for CUCV Subs, but since a 1028 is a heavier duty 1008, I chose 1029 as a heavier duty 1009... :wink: Later, Joe

The 1028A1 started life as a 1031 that then had a regular bed added. I'm going to guess that the GVW is different because it started as a chassis cab, and not a standard pickup. It definitely was not an 'upgrade' applied to a 1028. Later, Joe

Well, sometimes they make these things out of softer metal to save the more expensive parts... kind of like a fuse... I do, however, know that the LMC clutch is garbage and doesn't hold up to abuse nearly as well as the GM part does. If your friend could make one out of aluminum instead of pot...