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Hi all.
I recently replaced the rad, cap, t-stat, heater core, water pump and all hoses as the old rad had a hole in it and I thought I would replace everything after a few issues which seemed better after the pump was changed. my problem now is that when I've bled the air out with the cap off...
So I've been using the truck and although it was fine for a few days its playing up again. Its only reading hot on the gauge for a few minutes and then the stat opens and everything is back to normal (180-190) with some water going in the expansion tank. Any one got any ideas? Its not...
Is that Northampton way? Not too far then. I only know of a handful of owners in the uk, if you need anything give me a shout. Pm me or email me jamilla@btopenworld.com.
Are you taking it to any shows this year? How about wicksteed at war, I think that's near you?
I've read a few old posts on here & am leaning towards a possible blocked heater core? With the limited flow coming back from the heater core in to the rad & the issue only being from cold start up, i was thinking how likely is it that the core is blocked & it needs the pressure to build up in...
So i bled the system 2 days ago. I had it up on ramps & let it run with the cap off for about 30 minutes with all the bubbles coming out, the T-stat would open, the level drop and i then topped it up. I did this about 3 times & then put the rad cap back on & went for a drive. Drove well, no...
After letting it cool I checked the level & it had gone down by quite a bit so there must have been quite a lot of air that was trapped & had made its way to the top of the rad. I'll put the front up on ramps tomorrow and attempt to bleed it again with the cap off, let it heat up & the T-Stat...
When i ran it with the cap off it was running for about 25 minutes or so before i put it back on & went for a drive. It would push some water & a load of bubbles out the radiator, i squeezed the top hoses to get more out & then you could tell the T-stat had opened as the water level dropped & i...
Thanks for the reply, sorry about the thread title. I will ammend it & consider myself told.
There doesn't seem to be anything leaking out of anywhere but i will take the sender back out and put some tape around the thread as well just to be on the safe side.
I ran the system up to temp...
I recently replaced the radiator in my M1009 & all seemed to go well. I've bled the system and had it running fine with the blower nice & hot and just a little bit of water going in to the expansion tank. Then i changed the temp sender unit & installed a gauge on the dash. Since doing this i've...
Hey
This might be a simple thing but i haven't refilled one of these before and I want to make sure i'm doing it right. I had to replace the rad as it had a small hole in the top and wasn't pressurising the system. I replaced the rad, cap, thermostat along with the upper & lower hoses, all...
Thanks for the response, that was the answer i was hoping for.
Does the resistor only start to reduce the voltage when i attempt to start the truck i.e. flick the switch for the plugs?
So i had a look at it & have taken this picture. I've marked up what goes where so its easier to work out whats been done. Am i right in thinking that if i just completely remove the resistor and its wiring and then just put a piece of good wire from the block above the solenoid, to the...
Hey
yeah I need to have a good look at it but wanted to see if there was any common issue you guys new of to potentially save time. If the resistor has 12v to it would it reduce the voltage down to 6 like it reduces it from 24 down to 12? From what I've read since posting this its a good idea to...
Hey guys
I got some new glow plugs and wanted to check the current voltage to the plugs was definitely 12v as it has a manual switch that turns the glow plugs on before you start it. You just hold it down as long as u want them on for. This was already fitted when I got the m1009, the only...