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Read the pinned topic on this at the top of the forum. It's "NHC-250 valve and injector adjustment" or something like that.

Adjust valves and injectors first. That's the best place to start.

Which engine?

I sold a pair last year for $500. That was just the center chunk and the buyer pulled them from the axle housings.

I have a soft top thats always cold but my hard top seems to hold the heat in better. I'd start with flushing the heater core as mentioned above.

I think he is referring to durability issues with the transfer case. They already fail in low with the stock powertrain so bumping it up to 300+ hp and 1000+ tq would probably destroy it if a guy wasn't careful.

Thanks for the info! Order placed.

Does anyone know if there is a rebuild kit available for the treadle valve? One of mine is leaking too and needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

I have a project coming up at the house that would benefit from the use of a 6x6 dump truck. I need to get about 50 yards of material down a hill that is just a loose gravel "road". I could probably get it done with my pickup and dump trailer but it would be much easier with the M929. If...

Trent has been a huge help with mine. A great source of knowledge too. He helped with all of the parts on my turbo swap and dual fuel mod He is also the one who told me the big cam engines found in Western Star trucks have the same front mount as ours and would be a bolt in swap.

When your work with cummins NW, call the one in Chehalis. They really know their **** down there, that's the only one I use any more. Trent is the guy to talk to, he is familiar with these rigs too.

You can use an easy out to remove it (I like the proto square type) and run without it. Most applications didn't have it at all, it's a military thing.

I just pulled on a corner of mine and it started to come loose. Mine was held on with glue so once it started, it came off rather easy.

To fix the rub problem, run HEMTT rims in the front.

Tap a small screw driver in the slot on the cone washers. It will break them loose then pull each of them out. After that it will come right out.

It's a K&N E-1993 cone filter. I bought it on Amazon.com for $46. Works great until I get around to mounting and plumbing a standard commercial air canister and filter.

Freeze it then install

Read post #4. I'm no expert on this type of joint but I know the ones on my M54A2 wouldn't come apart like that. One of them even rolled out of the truck bed and stayed together after hitting the floor. Maybe find a good local 4x4 or axle shop?

I removed the dog house when I did mine, only took about 45 min to remove but I wouldn't want to try with it on. The hardest part was removing the allen head from the cylinder head. It took lots of heat and I also used lapping compound, borrowed that idea from another member. After that...

I use the axle shaft at an angle to pop them out. Works every time.