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I agree, on the surface, it would seem so. 30 years and more ago, often the cam bearings were not changed when rebuilding automotive and light truck engines. I do not know about today, as my engine rebuilding ended in mid 1980's. The differences here are special Diesel engine. (multifuel) Gear...

I'd use something like this: Permatex® Ultra Slick™ Engine Assembly Lube Proper lubrication of metal mating surfaces is essential prior to starting a new or rebuilt engine. Ultra Slick™ adheres to component surfaces to prevent scuffing and galling during initial start-up. This high quality...

To put it simply, with a gear drive, there is a force trying to push the gears apart that is countered by the upper part of the cam bearing. This force adds to the force created by the cams pushing on the tappets. The force on a gear drive is the opposite of a chain drive. What they are now...

Exactly what I was thinking. If feasible, fix it and sell it to recoup some of the $$$$$ for 6.5L. Too bad about #7 - I was thinking just rod and gaskets.

Was the rod still on the crankshaft? How does the crank journal look? Thinking you may be fortunate and have an easy rebuild there. :D

My thoughts - could be wrong. Sharp corner = stress raiser. Cyclical torque loading of shaft causes cyclical deflection and metal fatigue.

What is the key to such long life, especially in Alaska? Constant float charge?

At Toys for Tots M1009 parked on street.

At Toys for Tots, Saturday, Oct 4th LTken64 (Kenneth LeSoine)'s 1967 Jeep and one of the M35's being loaded with toys

Hi - neither GPS or MapQuest know Delazier Field in Bloomingdale. Could you post coordinates of visitor parking area or a nearby street? I don't have anything to exhibit. Am interested in seeing what others have, meeting SS members. 3pm.

Looks like it may have been driven a short distance without oil! If it were mine, I would grumble a lot and check transfer case and trans for metal. I am cheap, so I would be saving the oil and reinstalling it if it came out clean.

First thing I do when getting something new to me is to clean all the battery posts and clamps to shiny metal. Start with the negative (ground) and leave it off until you get all the others done. Prevents blowing holes in battery box when wrench slips. While I am at it, I clean the grounds and...

nopics

That means you did good. Probably some slight oxidation on VM and gen lite connections. If so inclined, you can probably bring VM up a tick by refreshing under dash and chassis grounds. It don't take much - 1/10 volt makes a slight difference on voltmeter.

Those are reasonable voltages on charge. Rear is a bit high,, but I would leave it alone. 2 batteries in series @ 29 volts shows that your wiring between them is doing it's job. Re Dash voltmeter - as a quick check, I would pull it and temporarily wire it across batteries with your voltmeter too...

who knows but they are all getting removed once blasted. Question for the expert - would it be easier to remove the rivets before blasting? Then the rivets heads will not shield the crossbar.

25 in tandem is low - should be sum of individual readings, so something is still buggered. (13+ and 13+ is 26-27) Get exactly what the 13+ is. Volt gauge may be ok. I would hope it reads low end of green zone below 13.6 or so. Proper charging voltage range is 13.8 to 14.2 depending on...

I consider those clamp on cable ends a temporary repair - a patch job. The copper continues to oxidize and there is trouble down the road. For a permanent repair, I carefully clean, flux and solder the connection.

That's what happens when you feed him Bud instead of Crown.:beer: