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Disconnect all the drive shafts before flat towing a M211 / M135 more that 5 miles. Failure to do so will run the rear pump in the transmission and will cause the transmission to fail. (Was designed to allow the truck to be push started.)

From what I understand from the history of the GMC M135 / M211 after WWII the Military was looking for a replacement for the GMC CCKW. But the Military awarded the contract to the REO company for their M34 truck. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M35_2%C2%BD-ton_cargo_truck This upset GMC as...

Oh, Almost forgot - you can download manuals here. http://www.jatonkam35s.com/jatonkaM135-211sTMdownloadpage.htm

Welcome! Always worth noting the Alpha Heaven website and their write up on the Hydramatic transmission. http://www.alfaheaven.com/MilitarySection/6x6%20Trucks/HydramaticHvn.html http://www.alfaheaven.com/MilitarySection/6x6%20Trucks/M135.html We need pictures!! :naner:

Those are called Emulsion Tubes. Mine looks like the one on the right. Are the small holes in the one on the left the same size as the one on the right? Alan

Just to note. Your fuel Jerry can is mounted wrong. :razz: The Jerry can police will tell you it needs have the opening towards the spare tire away from the exhaust. If you work like your other projects this will be nice! Alan

We call that stuff in the Carb, Gummie bears. If you are using Ethanol gas it is the result of it absorbing water, evaporating from the bowl and turning bad. Are you using any gas additives?

I think he means he can match the standard Behr codes. When we get these FS codes made up they consider them custom codes. HD can scan their bar code to match.

Here is a one of a kind: :shock: Anyone we know here? http://www.ebay.com/itm/GMC-Other-/162127657894?forcerrptr=true&hash=item25bf8fbba6:g:mfcAAOSwOVpXfEMu&item=162127657894

Nice! What'cha going to do with them?

Have you ever seen the older style water pumps with the oil/grease reservoir/cup with lid that screws into the body of the pump? I have an old M37 pump that is that way. Keeps the shaft and bearings lubed.

The little hole is called a bubbler. It lets a small amount of coolant through. Helps avoid air pockets. Do you think the old one might have a larger opening and more flow through the body?

Why don't you fabricate a wire frame and fit some custom made canvas doors.

Just in case it helps out, I swung by the local HD and had them mix a quart. :-D

Is it just that color they can't find in Canada or any of the Federal Standard Code numbers? When I got my last paints done they could not find the flat version of what I wanted so we went with the semi-gloss number and used a flat base to mix with. Can they find FS 26118? To me that looks...

To me it smells like moth balls with some oil added. Looks like rust soup in that one bearing. Yuck! What kind of lining is in that tank? I have never seen red before.

Humm.... those knobs look closer to what's on the trucks now. Thanks! Those guys are just down the road from me.

Yes that product link looks like it is the same as Lab Metal. I saw the quote - I believe it. This is tough stuff. I remember now when I put thin layers on my knuckle housing. Each time it cured out, to smooth it down I had to use a metal file first and then many sheets of cut sand...

You might be able to get the larger areas to shrink some by heating the metal and using a hammer and a wooden dolly or by putting a wet cold quenching rag on the metal to shrink it. Google that and you find bunches of info. I would try that first before doing bondo on those areas. There is...

If the surface is clean metal and not huge holes bondo will stick for years. It does not repel water so it needs to be primed and painted, or you will get rust under it and then it will pop off. You want a thin coat of bondo. If you are laying more than 3 mil or 1/4 of an inch you should be...