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Lab Metal is great stuff. The curved curved part of my M38A1 axle housing the knuckle seal rides on was rust pitted. I used it to fill those holes and it is still on there. It is tough stuff and hard to sand. Bondo would be easier and faster. Cheaper too.

Do you have a part number? I need one. lol

Just got back from getting a gallon. Here is the reminder:

If it was rebuilt but the rings did not seat, then you may get away with lightly honeing the cylinders and new rings.

That sounds exactly like what mine was doing. I did the compression test dry and then with oil. Only one cylinder was close to the right compression. So I am heading to a tear down and decisions on which way to rebuild.

There should be a one way vent on the axle. That might be what you heard. Sometimes the vents can clog causing too much pressure in the axle. Then the axle oil can migrate to the bearings. But if yours are open that's good.

You are right. I have a few Jeeps too. But when I started with the M211s I figured I would not even get back what I invested. There are still parts out there but other than us folk there is not much love for them.

It's almost summertime and the trucks are among the flowers.

I want to know where the stash of NOS transmissions are.

Those crate engines are normally all sealed up and preserved. What's required to get one up and running?

Just got back from the Aberdeen flea market in Maryland. Look what I found among a pile of pipes and parts in a big box on the back of a trailer!

Yes please give us a list of goodies!

That looks wonderful!!!

I think the rusty primer says wait 48 hours to put the final coating.

From the - Hydra-Matic Transmission Trouble - Shooting Diagnosis Guide. This can be found in the Sticky - PS – The Preventive Maintenance Monthly for the G749 Possible causes of Transmission Malfunction around the reverse not working: E3 - Improper oil pressure in reverse, Extensive...

I would like to know this as well. I have been sandblasting my M37 parts and to keep them from flash rusting spraying them soon after with Rusty Metal primer. I read though the data sheet and I don't see anywhere about not painting over other paints. Just should not be oily or loose paint...

That rim looks like a M35 or M211 rim.

There is a market for the parts. I would not say the parts would sell like hot cakes. But it is getting harder to find the parts so folks will just really need certain parts. And I don't see a current MV suppler stepping up to start making G749 specific reproduction parts. Keep us updated...

Boom Cha-a-lacka, Boom Cha-a-lacka, Boom Cha-a-lacka, Boom. Yes Sir General Sir! ;-)

I like the idea of flushing it. How would you make sure the flush fluid was all out? Or it needs to be compatible with the normal oil.