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I don't understand. You say that it quit while driving, so you changed the fuel filter? and now you can't prime it even thought the fuel pump is working? When you primed the filter if fuel came out of the vent, then its is primed. Did this happen?
First I would do is check all of the fuses for voltage. If the fuse does not have voltage follow the wire back towards the battery to find the fusible link that is probably blown or loose connection. Could also be the the blackout light switch- make sure that there is 12 V there as well.
If the...
Does the odometer move either? I would check the plastic gear first, it seems easier to me. If you have a helper spin the gear end you should see the speedometer bounce a little.
If you have electric available, I would go for that as it would cost less than paying for the fuel and also the cost...
If you test the voltage while the key is turned, while trying to start, and it still says 12V- then you have a problem other than the battery. It is normal for the voltage to drop some while cranking, but if you see it drop close to 0V then it is likely that the batteries have issues. As stated...
dirty oily water the oil on dipstick looks good? I don't understand what you are saying. If you have water leaking from the back of the motor it could be a leaking head gasket. Is the coolant level dropping?
Probably not. I have not been following these trucks very long, but I have yet to hear about lubrication related failures. In most engines it is a waste of money. If you are going to be racing your truck at high RPMS there may be case to do this. Now if you are going to be replacing bearings and...
I don't think you need to do that first. Try to find the wire at the fuse block, if so, then try to test for voltage where it connects to the block. If it does, then there is a break in the wire someplace in between the block and the light switch. If there is a break and you can't find it, you...
Right, its not the switch. You have to follow the smaller orange wire back to the fuse block to find the problem. It may just be a loose connection there. Look in the appendix of the -20 that I gave you in the other thread on page F-13. Look at the fuse block and find where the .8 ORN-4OC wire...
I got mine off the shelf as well at AZ. Shortly after I upgraded the assembly to commercial type spin-on. I was having leaking issues around the filter/base. If you see evidence of fuel leakage you will likely have starting problems.
The large orange wire with black stripe is from the battery and it looks like it is supplying the headlight 12V. There is another orange wire, .8 ORN-4OC, there that is smaller and it goes to pin 5 on the headlight switch and the fuse box. I believe that if you had 12V on this wire your lights...
Test the wires for 12v on the back of the light switch by back probing the connector. From the drawing, it looks to me like all of the wires should have 12V except the dome light wire (white) when the switch is on. Let us know what you find.
An alternative way is to take your 12V from the front battery, to a fuse block that you buy and install, then to a switch that you mount in the truck. Then connect the radio to the switch. And for the constant 12V for the clock memory use the hot side of the switch.
Why would you have to ground it to the frame? There is already a ground wire there. Or is it that the connector you bought missing that connection. Interesting.... I believe that others have said that if you have an '84, the aftermarket trailer connector will work, but not after as the wiring...
Well, its either the pump or the steering box. Have someone turn the wheel turn to turn while you listen with the hood up and identify where the sound is coming from. Since it is working fine you don't "Need" to do anything right now. But for peace of mind you replace to offending piece.
Also...
That is an STE/ICE connector. It is use for diagnostics if you have the right hardware- but it is almost like finding an extinct species. You can certainly relocate it because I doubt you will ever use it.