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Ok, got my rehostat in and wired to a 120 outlet. To start with test one. I apply 95v to pin A on J13 and ground to pin B on J13. Is there an easier way to do this than to put it on the pins? I have no good female pins to help me to not fry or electrocute myself.

Okay, so your right. Why can't this be easier? I removed the wires and Ta da 510. Everyone else has burned up obvious repairs. No, I have to take it to depot level repairs. I was an A3 BFVS maintainer and we never learned circuitry in my B9 ASI. This system makes me feel so dumb.

I'm not pinning it out. Im reading it tab to tab on the resistor itself. My r1 is reading 10 which it should and my r3 which is also 510.

Just going over some resistors. My R2 is only reading 50 ohms. It should be 510 so I know I have a bad resistor there. I'm having a hard time finding a replacement. This is the only thing I have found close to the specs." 510 Dale 55w equivelent." I know i have to change the mounting but will...

Could I use 100ohm 100w rheostat?

https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN%C2%AE-0-220V-Modulator-Electric-Controller/dp/B00OZ5MBM6/ref=sr_1_6?crid=S47K0GD208Q2&keywords=smakn+ac+0-220v+20a+pulse+width+modulator&qid=1579120059&sprefix=smakn+ac%2Caps%2C161&sr=8-6

I ordered a 220vac-0vac rehostat from amazon. Pretty cheap for $18.

So I will be bench testing this weekend. It shows I have to apply 95v. What would I use to give me 95 volts for testing purposes?

I won't be doing that. I seen that video of a guy using a drill to get his generator to light off.

I thank you both Guyfang and peapvp for helping me. Would I be able to apply 120v AC to the outlet to see if it lights off?

F1 I get 3 volts. F2 0 volts. That's connected with my jumper switch on. Now when I disconnected f1 and f2 I get 24 volts with jumper on.

Connected I get 3 volts. Disconnected I get 24.

3 volts when switch is held. And the RPMs are maxed out definitely over 1800

I have 24 volts there. On the block. Only when the start switch is held.

I get 24 volts to that block with f1 and f2 disconnected.

Ok it's definitely not the speed switch. I get 24v to 13 when held in start. K5 clicks even with my remote switch.

I'm probably going to tap into A and C and add a remote switch to the control board.

I get 2 ohms off f1 and f2

So I followed those steps out of the TM originally. Jumped A and C and I have voltage. Originally I don't think my test points were in the correct spots but that was a while ago. Being that I get 24 volts where the exciter wires go. It states that if I get voltage when jumped I'm looking at a...

How do I test this? I know it turns off the starter. I get 5v out the accessory plug and shows about 25v on the gauge only when I hold it in start and at full throttle. I'm thinking about adding a switch to jump A and C. I put my finger on K5 but I can't tell if it is K7 next to it operating.