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You can have a local upholstery shop make you some sets that would be much more comfortable and still able to be swapped for storage. I knew a guy that did so in his and they were pretty nice, little bit thicker but still able to be used.

You’ll need the brackets pictured. The larger ones replace the little tie downs that are many trucks. They are attached on the tunnel. The divider sits in the notch of the bracket and us bolted in. The smaller l bracket is attached to the b pillar and then to the divider.

I had a helmet top at one point. I really liked it for what it was. Good storage, much less leaks than a slantback kit, easily repairable. I picked it up and drove it home upside down on the back of my truck at the time. Took five of us guys from work to flip it and set it back on the hmmwv...

This thread is almost 5 years old. He hasn't been on site since 17'. I doubt he has it still.

If you put on a new belt and you still have the sound, could be the tensioner is going out. On my "normal" vehicles, every time I change a belt, I change the tensioner. Overkill maybe, but thats just me.

Removed during demil process.

$4-5k these days lol.

Hard to tell on the sounds alone, but the first crank video sounds like dead injectors. The rattle on the other video could be anything, bad pulley to a loose item vibrating.

Most likely the yard will not let you attempt to drive off on pickup and its highly advised against and illegal. There will be problems with your truck.

TM 9-2320-387-24-1 Go to page 3-49. It walks you through it. I did not have driveshaft out when I removed it. But, if it gives you more room it will help. You have to reach up and over for those bolts. I do remember using a jack to raise it up when i reinstalled, just to help hold it. But the...

That part really only has like one bolt attached to the shield on top and then on the sides. You can remove the rear elbow/tail pipe first, then unbolt the middle from the y pipe and the transfer case bracket if its still there. Then you should just wrestle it out.

Does your setup look like this?

I have pulled the entire exhaust out and did not have the issue you noted. I would think maybe it had been tinkered with by someone else. The ypipe disconnects and drops out, then the middle section and then the exhaust tip or fording pipe. Drop a few pics of the connections your seeing as...

Its not as bad as it looks. I had a 1143 awhile back that had seen not one MWO done on it including the park brake. I ordered the disc and pads on epay. Go ahead and spray the parts with some pb blaster and start moving it around to get it broken loose. Remove the parts and then renistall, clean...

Doesn't look too shabby. You will need wiper arms, probably linkages, didn't see the wiper motor either but may have missed that. Get the credit card or swap n shop ready.

You will not get a perfect truck from auction. You gotta go ahead and get that though engrained in your head if you set down that route. The pictures will never cover every aspect of what you will need to fix.

Probably not a fuel leak. Looks like leaking output shaft seals on the case, slinging fluid onto the case and then dirt is getting stuck to the fluid and building up over time. See how oily the u joint is? It spins so it flings off. But the case is covered up. Its not hard to rebuild the entire...

I have used both retrofit kits and was pretty pleased with the results. If you're just replacing old belts, get the other ones tgejesse listed.

Yeah it was posted back a ways. Nartron 12469158-1, yellow label. I went ahead and bought the loaner to use until I order a later model box. In meantime I’m gonna try one of the local guys to rebuild this one.

Well, as noted the ground was not returning through the box to initiate the wait light coming on and plug activation. I have looked over the bad box but really don't see any devious spots of corrosion or burns. Maybe one of those little diodes or a bad solder joint? No answer there. I think I...