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I'm taking a Dark Angel medical trauma response class that weekend, so definitely won't make it. I am still thinking about trying to organize a HMMWV trail-ride event out there in the spring though. Maybe a weekend of camping. Will try to give everyone ample time (months) to get it on their...

When you get your parts, let me know and I'll come help wrench!

I didn't need the ground wire. The self-tapping screws were enough to do the trick.

Well, that's one way to price yourself right out of the market I guess. ;)

I think the reason that Plan B supply charges that for the title process in UT is that the vehicle actually has to be IN Utah to register it, so it has to be trucked or driven there, registered and returned. But then you're right back where you started...you have a title from another state...

I don't have any input on the push button switch (sorry to hear it popped though), but on the self-cancelling switch are you getting a lot of flex in the ring that's screwed to the steering wheel that the cancelling pins are part of? If so, that flex will eventually pop the cancelling pins out...

Based on what I'm seeing, the brace isn't bolted to the underbody. The bolts that attach the brackets (feet) to the brace are all the holds it in place. So yeah, I was wondering about thread pitch of the nut threads in the brace itself. Thanks.

Great ideas, thanks! I've been putting together my parts list for this on Kascar's site, it's changing by the hour as you guys give me ideas. LOL.

Yup, ordered it earlier today, thanks! I figured with $8 Plus shipping for a keyed washer (minimum $20 order, plus shipping), plus trying to find a spindle nut socket, I might as well go ahead and suck it up and buy the BH kit. I just bought one for now, but will replace the others as I can.

There's a brace under the tunnel that the screws go into for the brackets (shown at the very bottom of the 2nd diagram). Do you happen to know what the thread pitch on that brace is?

I'll be doing this seal swap next weekend. I see the procedure calls for rotating the spindle back and forth 5x each direction to seat the bearings. I guess that means I have to disconnect the half-shaft in the process?

Thanks Aviator85. Given that the washer is 10% of the cost of a Blue Hummer assembly, I bit the bullet and ordered one.

Think this would work then? https://real4wd.com/store/Screw,-Cap,-Hexagon,-3/8-16-X-2.00

Ok one more for ya.... The bolt that attaches the legs of the radio shelf to the bracket (item #5 in the second picture above) are listed as 3/8-16x2.25. Why would they spec such a long bolt just to go through that bracket?

Thanks Ryan, much appreciated!

Does anyone have the part number of the bolt circled in this picture? I've looked through both of the parts TMs and either missed it, or it's not listed. ETA: This one too....none of the diagrams for the radio mounts show these parts:

I did an almost identical solution, except I mounted the cutoff out the front of the battery box instead of the rear.

Does anyone have a source for these where I don't have to buy a whole seal kit? I have a class 3 leak on my right rear hub output seal, and I have a 4-pack of new seals, I just need a new keyed washer, but I can't seem to find them individually anywhere.

I saw your photos of the deck in your other thread. What's it for? I bought a similar USB charger/voltage meter and am going to install it in center console I'm planning. Is yours 12 or 24V?

http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/dainleclfuse.html