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Hold down for the bottle jack

.25 inch think and 1 5/8th wide

They are fine thread.

After a lot of pulling and prying it's off. CUCVRUS was right. Whatever it takes is the best way to get it off.

Have not had a chance to get back to fighting with it. I did pop the nail heads with no luck. The wheel cylinders are not more than 2 years old. I did open the bleeder and removed the brake line. I might try a hydraulic spreader to force it off if I can borrow one from work for the day.

My right side brake drum on my M1028 has gotten the best of me. Axle shaft is out and the locking ring is removed. E brake is off. The wheel would not move by hand when I started on it. The adjuster is frozen and I am letting it soak overnight in PB blast. I was able to work it where I can...

That is a homemade bracket. I am not sure if you have a direct drive or gear reduction starter. They use different brackets.

The volt meter socket bulb should be a 1445

Getting closer to being back on the road.

Small hose running from injector to injector could be leaking if they are cracking.

Got to work doing some frame repairs and knocking the rust off the frame. After a coat of KBS coating it should be back on the road. Also found my welding skills are not what the used to be.

I just went through this with my 1028. The cable snapped about a foot from the latch. I unbolted the handle under the dash then I was able to lift the left side of the hood and snag the cable and pull out a few inches from under the hood. After cutting the cable I grabbed the inner cable with...

I have a m1009 rear bumper for sale if anyone needs one. I can stop by the show at any time.

Hillbilly Wizard has original starters that are rebuilt.

That spot weld cutter look like it should make the job easy.

I was afraid it was welded in. I do have the bed off and flipped but I am leaning toward just patching in some metal for now. Thanks for all the help.

Has anyone replaced the tail pan on the bed of a M1028? I have all the bolts out but the old one feels like it is spot welded in or just rusted in. The part is on the underside of the bed at the back end of the bed if I am not referring to it by it's right name. This is the part below.

Did you check the glow plugs themselves? I am not sure if they are all bad if that would cause the light not to come on.

I just replaced mine with a Standard Motor FLS3. Without it you will have the dash light on.

Had the same problem with a rear wheel on my truck. A little help from a torch with MAPP gas popped it right off.