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I heard it through the grapevine that GM also pressured the gov't not to sell M998's to the public, so that they wouldn't compete with the H1's that GM was selling under the Hummer brand. I still think selling M998's to the general public will never happen, but at least GM is no longer part of...
I would recommend either Shell Rotella 15W-40 or Delo 400 15W-40, both of which meet the latest CD specifications. Neithrr is cheap, but then neither is an engine rebuild.
I wouldn't start my truck in very cold temperatures just as an experiment. If needed, like to move the truck or go out and rescue someone, then OK. Otherwise, let the lady sleep. But that's just me.
Just my $0.02.
These trucks take a licking and keep on ticking. The above service advice is even more important if that was salt water you were driving through. :grd:
First, turn the battery switch on and make sure your three lever is in the stop light position. Next, unplug the two wires from the brake light switch under the truck and have a helper watch as you short across the two wires. I used the handles of a pair of pliers. If your brake lights come on...
First of all, your post sounds just like a classfied ad and should be in with all the other classified ads. I'm just saying...
Secondly, I doubt a gasser Unimog has enough horsepower to run 1400's at highway speed. You would have to start downshifting like mad at any hint of a grade.
Hey Gunfreak, is that the correct oil filler cap in your photo of the engine? I know that if you use a gas engine cap on a CUCV 6.2, it will cause the crankcase seals to leak.
I had a similar experience years ago with a replacement odd-fire V-6 in a CJ-5. I put the engine in, fired her up, and was all proud of myself. As soon as the thermostat opened up I heard a "whack" followed by the fan not turning and belts squeeling.
It turned out there was a loose bolt in...