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I went over the bridge to Eastern Surplus today to pick up a master cylinder rebuild kit and saw these beauties in their lot. Man, I felt like a pervert in a porno shop,,,lol, military smut. Enjoy.
P.S. Great people at Eastern, if you get a chance stop by and see them.
Mine did exactly the same thing....Bad push button switch. Hope you didn't kill the starter.
I replaced mine with a 24 volt LED light up switch, Lights up when engaged.
OK, just checked my voltage at the batteries at idle....27.5 consistent, gauge reads right at the top of the green. Looks good to me...problem solved, the electrical gremlin is gone. Thanx for the help guys.
Thanx Pan, it worked out pretty good. I just used the original design as a starting point and basically made the pivot point farther from the block to allow the mount on the alternator to clear everything. The alternator is pretty close to the fuel filter housing bracket, but it's not a big deal...
Pictures as promised
Pictures as promised. It wasn't too bad getting it in place, but, I probably should have moved the fuel filter housing out of the way since I have big hands and could have used a little more room. I used standard Dayco 47" belts. But, all done and charging at 27.8 volts...
Pictures as promised. It wasn't too bad getting it in place, but, I probably should have moved the fuel filter housing out of the way since I have big hands and could have used a little more room. I used standard Dayco 47" belts. But, all done and charging at 27.8 volts with everything on...
Yeah, I tried to modify the original.....didn't work out so well. The holes for the pivot point wouldn't allow the "ears" of the pivot point on the new alt to clear the bracket. So on to plan B, I got a couple pieces of flat stock and bent 90 degree angles on them to make the pivot, will weld...
That is exactly what I did, but, being as anal as I am, I wasn't content with that. Flipping the switch off works great and saved the batteries from being burnt toast. I picked up the new alternator, so, tonight I will modify the existing bracket and do the install tomorrow.
No luck with adjusting, if anything it got worse. After taking note of it's original position I turned it back and forth a couple of times, then set it back to where I started and slowly turned it up and down. It started out at 34.2 volts and only moved a volt in either direction. Even though...
It has the "newer" style generator with an internal regulator. Everything has been replaced in the starting/charging system. My first suspect was the cables as they were loose in the crimp on ends. But, new cables, terminals and batteries didn't help. It just seems funny that it seems to be OK...
My 71 M35 started overcharging the other night. I hadn't noticed the gauge, but sure did hear the belts screaming, after turning the power off and on a couple of times all was OK. I had the batteries load tested, one was good and the other marginal. I then had then generator spin tested at...
Thank you, This is a tremendous help. It's not that I couldn't or didn't want to be bothered, I just wanted to have my machining all done before I took it apart on my next scheduled oil change. I am really surprised just where this thread went. WOW! You'd think I was trying to steal top secret...
The airtex/carter was available locally, and I needed the truck up and running ASAP. I still may order the Parker as a backup.
Got it installed and it fired right up.
Where did you put your Airtex? The directions say to locate it as clow as possible. Does it make a difference? I am planning on using the existing copper line and compression fittings.
I went to NAPA, and ordered the Airtex E8131. I picked it up and it is a Carter pump. It looks identical to the Airtex, so I am assuming that they both have the same internals and outputs, but, I could be wrong. I picked up the necessary compression fittings, and will be installing it tomorrow...