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That was this Royco oil. https://www.145.aero/royco-560-case-of-24-qt-p/royco560-cs.htm Use at own fun risk in engine, is all I can say.

It just behaved weird. I seemed to have no need to push the pedal on the usual bridge climb where my truck feels sluggish. When I shut the engine to go to a store first, it barely turned over upon restart. I then went to a gas station to put some diesel to dilute the mix thinking I should have...

That‘s what I am talking about. So This looks like the complete set up for the same price of getting the lower and upper kit... hmm... I could not find complete AD9s. Was not sure what other parts I needed with the units they were sending. So I guess I will stick with halidex.

any body have any experience retrofitting with an AD-9 style air drier? It seems to be cheaper but I am not sure what this story on having a Port A or not is all about. Also it seems they only sell the assembly without the wire harness nor any other components. Not sure where to get the right...

Thanks for the idea on white vinegar. Excellent idea. I will do it. Yes, the other boot is going to have to be done, indeed. I am using a motorcycle lift from harbor freight tool to slide the hub in and out, works pretty well.

Was on the highway and all of a sudden I lost air pressure. It was too noisy to detect where the leak came from, I ended up pushing the emergency button and dragged the truck out to a gas station on the side. One of my hubs was smoking because of the brake stuck down. I caged it and when I...

I was wondering, what if one ran coils around a turbo and then used the turbo heating to heat the cabin or other areas, then at the same time it would cool the turbo and give it better boost even. Heck, better could be to run alcohol coils around it to vaporize in the pistons with additional...

As I was told to “stop it”, I am going to stick to regular diesel, but has anyone got experience with boosting compression ration mixing in non combustible synthetic turbine oil? It gave quite a hill climb ability to the old NHC250 although it almost hydrolocked it at 3 quarts of turbine oil per...

Redid the boot on the left side, took me 3 days to take appart, clean and rebuild. I had a few human error setbacks. When I put the hub back in, it would not spin. I removed it again and found I put the brake springs arch backwards and they were rubbing on the hub, yet it still was not spinning...

Ahhhh I almost blew my engine by accident but the NHC250 seems tough. First I tightened the thread on the coolant reservoir cap, which is what probably saved me from blowing the head gasket. Since I used to make special race fuel mixtures with my bike when I raced a little bit back in the days...

Yes. Was talking of valve atem

So I went to the beach and lowered my tire pressures, and maybe too much for the inner tires (newbiiiie). After powering through a couple dunes now some of the valves are shifted and unaccessible or outright slipped under the rim. I suppose there is no easy way to undo that other than take it...

Ah, ok. No, everything is fine. I just was changing my big fuel filter and thought of changing that one too. I wont bother then.

Any one know how to loosen that plug. Mine is tight in there and there is no way to loosen it without damaging the screw head that seem of a softer material. Maybe I need to take apart the area and use a plumber pipe wrench.

When I put the M-923 on jacks, the front wheel will turn some freely and then feel a slight tug from the differential to make a click/clunk and then turn freely again for about a quarter turn etc. Also my rear wheels, when making sharp turns, even on dirt, seem to make cluncky noise and bounce...

When the truck is parked on a slight uphill incline, it seems to take a bit longer to start and it will do a small rev up and down and back to normal. Parked on a horizontal lot, it starts just fine. I suspect maybe I need to change the fuel filter at least? Maybe something else is up?

OK, cool. I think I found some from a distributor but they quote me about $100 per stud. It looks like they are the same as the PTO stud kit sold at big Mike"s . I will try those first.... Crossing fingers...

I bought this seal kit for the front axle that included the tabbed outer hub seal for the rear axle. However I did not realize it was for the rear hub only and installed it on the front hub. Is that going to cause problems? Everything is torqued and seems to spin ok. I have not test drove it yet

Anyone know what type/size stud are used that hold the brake assembly to the axle? I stripped the stud when I apparently over torqued the nut on it. It is a double ended stud like this...

I appreciate you all replies. So, I am inspecting now the hub. Once apart, is it normal for the inner roller bearing to have a travel play in the space between the copper seal and the hub bearing raceway?