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Yes, you would think a rebuilt pump would be tested, etc. but HH piston is not rebuildable, yet.
To see what I mean take all injector feed tubes off of HH and turn motor over. If fuel is not shooting
over a foot high out of holes in HH, start up speed fuel pressure is too low to get fuel to...
If she runs OK once you get it started but is hard to start, I found the HH pressure to the
injectors is too low because its single piston is no longer able to get pressure up high enough at the
low starting RPMs. This is caused by a slow wearing away over time when fuel is not very, very...
Obviously quality manufacturing practices have been sacrificed on the altar of greed and lack of pride.
I've heard of German engines so well made that gaskets were not necessary. Just saying.
I'm using heavy duty bungee cords that don't give any corrosion problems.
I'm using four 12 volt batteries(NAPA 8427) in series/parallel without a troublesome
battery box.
Does anyone have any comments on this arrangement? Is there a reason
batteries need to be bolted down?
I would like to see someone try back cutting the three notches in spring retainer; even if
things get a little too wobbly the over bend in the clip's three prongs would still hold enough
especially with these new heavy duty clips.
Comments ???
As I understand it once you are up to speed the high pressure pump in the IP is sufficient to
keep pressure OK without help from the intank pump.
I would first check the fittings and fuel line from the final filter to the HH for leaks or collapsing.
Since the motor does run at higher RPM most likely the HH piston is leaking from wear and can not maintain enough pressure to open
injectors at lower RPM's. Using none standard and not so clean fuel causes this single piston to wear quickly since it is doing all the work. I found very fine...
Yes, you are exactly right. If you can reasonably replace a piece such as the ubiquious LTD-465 block
then by all means do it and not fool around with doubtful solutions.
However, do what you got to do when trying to keep an antique going and parts are not available.
Good luck.
Anybody heard of using puddle welding. An old machinist/chemist friend of mine
used this to weld up cast iron. He used an oxygen/acetylene torch and puddled the
metal all around the crack. Then when finished he immediately placed the piece in a bed of saw
dust so it would cool down slowly...
Where on the bell housing is the pressurized system fitting mounted? Is there a plug or something on top of it?
Also, is there a pressurizing fitting on the transmission?
Thanks
The main idea of a centralized venting system, as I understand it, is to be able to
apply low pressure air to the axles, 3 psi, and other components whenever you find
yourself entering water of some depth. This should minimize the amount of
water/debris getting into things.
If plumbed right...
I sort of got the same problem with a right rear wheel. It runs a little warm but usually not
too hot to the touch. I removed the outer axle cap and got maybe two cups of diff oil to
run out. Soon I plan to replace whatever is letting the diff oil in and check over all seals
and bearings, too.
I thought the time restraints where necessary to allow the turbo to spool down or up while oil pressure
was still not sufficient to properly lub turbo?? This is a good reason to covert to spin on oil filters
for faster start up oil pressure.
Also, I use Lucas oil additive which I think holds...
I'm finding that the HH single plunger is very easy to damage with more than sub micron filtering. Had much trouble trying to
use WVO even at one micron filtering because of extremely fine particles of burnt grease(carbon) that are very hard
and abrasive. I would suggest not trying to use WVO...
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