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You won't be able to run anything meaningful off the front hydraulics. I ran a snowblower off of the rear hydraulics for a few years, but if I did it again I'd put valves in the circuits instead of having to switch the quick disconnects for the backhoe twice a year.

Thinking more about it, I'm no sure I've ever tried the wipers before.

Today I wanted to use the SEE that gave me all kinds of grief (fuel system, primarily) when I first got it. After it sitting for maybe three months, including in -22 temps, I didn't really know what to expect. Well, it started up instantly - once I remembered that I have to push in the switch...

As I recall, the line comes from the top of the axle housing, then the rubber portion goes to the backing plate. Much like a typical brake hose.

That makes two of us.

If so, put a valve in the line so you can turn the air on when/if you want to pressurize the axles.

Hydrostatic drive is the only other version I've even come across, but that doesn't mean others don't exist. And if you want to confuse a typical car driver, have them drive an MB 4/94 with the working gear option. There really isn't room for any more levers between the seats on those.

I remember that. Sort of. Also that the ride and drive was among the scariest.

That may not be the officially approved method, but that's how I connected them. And it worked. That long thread is called "SEE, HMMH, and HME owners group", or something close to that. Most everything FLU related has been covered in that one, sometimes repeatedly. Be prepared to spend some...

You really can't use anything but the OE style plastic lines , or rubber hose, I suppose. Of course, now I can't remember if anything was different on the banjo fittings, but I doubt it. Anyway, I just heated the plastic up a bit and pushed it onto the fittings. It may have been described in...

I didn't need or use any special tools. Just replaced loose or questionable lines as needed. That SEE will be expensive for you if you don't work on it yourself, and without throwing parts at it.

What's a diesel mechanic going to do to the fuel lines that you couldn't?

Well, they do come with the built-in ether system, so it can't be all bad. If used correctly. And as mentioned, don't expect the fuel system to catch up and take over after one quick squirt. I still think you have air leaks in the system.

I don't think you need to worry about bleeding anything. These things are surprisingly self bleeding. I know many doesn't care for it, but it's easy to sit in the drivers seat and spray some ether into the intake while trying to start them. With a little practice they can also be kept running...

Just remembered...it's Belmetric. And don't forget to ask Matt about sending the washers for the banjo fittings, too. You probably won't need to replace all the fuel lines, but if you can turn one on the fitting, that's a leak point. Also, the gasket on the strainer is a likely source. I...

I chased several air leaks, and severe bacteria in the tank, for a while. BioBor took care of the bacteria and parts and pieces from Matt (of course I can't remember the company name now) solved the air leaks.

Depends on what you consider "new". They've been using the soy lube for about 20 years by now.

Let me know if you're interested. I have nice one for sale.

Would you mind an HME?

They should be the much better flat face version. As I recall, the ones on the tool reel are the same, so get the part numbers from those. I've used Google, then eBay from there.