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You sure they are vent lines? Most trucks will have a second set of lines installed that don't go anywhere; they are intended to go to the heater in the ambulance body as far as I know.

1.5 ohms. As long as it's around 1 or 2 ohms you should be okay. They usually either work, or don't, and the don't side can be open or shorted.

Is it just the truck shuddering, or does the engine also sound rough as well? There could be something else in the drivetrain rather than the engine being the culprit.

There should be a little smoke under heavy acceleration, so to me this does sound like a fuel starvation issue. It only does it after the engine warms up a bit, or all of the time once you start loading it up?

In other words, runs rough under load. Time to start checking out the fuel system. Should have a steady stream of fuel out the filter drain in the front wheel well when running. If slow trickle then might be a blockage in the system like your check valves or fuel pickup in the tank. If no...

I see no reason why not. Some really rough numbers: lights aren't a big draw at 24v, maybe 5 or 6 amps for the headlights if incandescent, and less if LED. Marker lights maybe a couple amps all together. AC is mostly the clutch and blower motors. I think my Red Dot has a 20 amp breaker in...

typically the surplus MTR are recommended against due to their high failure rate. I bought a set that was less than 10 years old and 90%+ tread. Within 6 months the sidewalls were failing. Military put out a bulletin that all MTR tires over 5 years old were to be removed and disposed of for...

The maintenance free or the batteries with the inset vent caps, so they have a completely flat top, will work with the original hold down brackets. If it has the raised vent caps then it won't. The picture at the bottom is a set of group 24 AGM batteries, so the same size and flat top. I'm...

This pipe is MUCH heavier than conduit, so I don't recommend using it while driving. If you do, then put something inside of it like 1/2" black iron pipe or other heavy metal tubing, otherwise you'll end up with everything bending backwards

First bow approx 33" from bottom to top of curve, Other three are approx 39"

Scroll to top of page Find "Upgrade" in the header and click on it.

There is a guy that made electric cooling fans work (or so he says) What he did though was separated out every item in the cooling stack to different locations, and each of them got their own cooling fans. The stock fan is designed to move something like 15k cfm of air. I haven't found many...

if it hasn't been linked yet, here is the manufacturer troubleshooting guide for the 200 amp system. Pretty easy to figure out if you know how to use a multimeter https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG17_uid252021123202.pdf

You might also consider getting buddy buddy with an NCO or officer down in the motorpool and see if they can help you out a bit, even if it's just taking it down for an inspection and seeing what they say you need to do. Might cost you a 12 pack or two, but will likely be well worth it. For...

definitely get a mechanical gauge and check oil pressure that way. The military gauges are pretty bad, and should only be used as reference after you get readings from real gauges.

I very much agree. The advice posted on here and feedback from experts saves owners tens of thousands of dollars every year, so a subscription is the least bit you can give back to support this place.

For the last question, power steering only uses pressure when you are turning the wheels. friction in the system is likely what builds the pressure, as reading the troubleshooting pages posted below it only mentions the pump being an issue if pressure or flow is too low, and not anything else...

what you change is the amount of time it takes to build the pressure, but it shouldn't affect the actual pressure.

For future reference, if you are able to you should attach pictures of the part you are trying to figure out. On a lot of these trailers, they are what sometimes gets referred to as "trailer salad" or other such names, with the point being that just because the model says one thing, it doesn't...

it's also recommended that you use LED bulbs in the brake light position if you don't have the newer LED assemblies for the rear, to reduce the amount of current going through the brake switch which in turn reduces wear/arcing