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Needlessly over-complicated IMO and while some of these actuators might be close in terms of performance, they are bulky, expensive, and complex in terms of moving parts. The hydraulics have a straightforward manual override scheme, are simple, and a LOT more powerful. I guess I just don't see...

You open the vent to expel water from the separator. That is supposed to be done weekly IIRC. For priming you don't need to open the vent. Ron is using a filter without the separator it would appear. Our trucks (3126/C7 anyway) have two "filter" heads but the one with the primer has the water...

Definitely requires patience. I've seen two for sale since I bought mine in 2021. When they do come up for sale there's actually not that many buyers lining up because most buyers are first-time buyers and don't understand the value or the high asking price so they pass them up for cheaper A0...

Wouldn't it be convenient if (some of) those unit just needed an option pin change that forces a reload of the option pin information from ROM to get them working again? I suppose that Dana and the Army don't want to mess with that at the unit level and it may indicate more than corrupt data in...

Changing the fuel filters it typically doesn't take more than 20-30 pumps. Might have to do it a second time if it doesn't stay running. They prime pretty quickly in my experience.

RV slide outs don't require significant force. They are not lifting anything against gravity. Just sliding something sideways on greased tracks. Hydraulics are much simpler and more robust. No motors or gears. And the factory hydraulics can move quite fast with the right electric pump.

No not really. Just for looks. A few have cracked so a few days ago I pulled them off actually. What IS good are the silicone "powder coating" thread protectors I used on the wheel-half studs. Those are excellent. Amazon has them. 5/8" IIRC.

Oh yeah. The factory Red Dot AC system is the killer app for these trucks. That and ceramic window film (tinted or not). A1R's have better cab insulation as well and are quieter than older trucks. Honestly the only models worth looking for at this point - especially with prices having dropped or...

PTP is my go-to for turbo blankets: https://www.ptpturboblankets.com/collections/t3-t4/products/t3-t4-turbo-blanket-hybrid

Our turbo (3126/C7) is a Borg Warner S300 (made for CAT) and my spare M-ATV turbo (370 HP C7) is a T3 flange but based on that chart it's a 7 cm thick turbine housing so I guess a T4 blanket?

It likely won't take it all. You'll have to run it briefly to pump it through the cooler, and filters, etc before it will take the rest of the fluid.

Ah yes. 42nd week of 2016. Well you know the military was using it!

I think that's still a current menu item and near as I can tell it was introduced in 2014. There is likely a date code on the package. It was probably consumed within 1-2 years of production.

Then you have a significant chance of encountering more electrical problems as you continue to own the truck. The first thing every owner of these trucks should do is clean EVERY ground connection on the truck. Some, like the main cab ground strap, should just be replaced with one that is easier...

How many of the ~100 grounds have you cleaned so far? There's at least one or two behind each turn/park housing and some are nearby on marker lights, headlights, or inside the driver's side step with the washer bottle..... Also could be the flasher module or the column switch. Clean ALL...

Correct - the gauge runs off the MMDC on a closed loop CANBUS - they are entirely digital so just put that guy back in the dash. You will have to put a switch on the signal from the sending unit going into the MMDC (under the dash). While you are at it, add some inline filters to the front and...

I've used the Timesert kits. Used one on an aluminum Ford transfer case a lot of years ago. Worked without issue. The other option would be to get something like a Fumoto valve and epoxy it into the hole. Then you never actually have to remove it again. I use one of these for my engine oil...

The troubleshooting for that fault runs right to PDM 1 and when your reading is 0v at CB86's socket it tells you to replace PDM 1. 😅 I don't know about that. I think I would be checking for where PDM 1 is getting it's constant +12v from and where else it's sending it......

Maybe if you pull the gauge panel. Haven't looked at accessibility for that. Hopefully you can get to it. Otherwise it's going to be a lot of disassembly.

Yep. Worth testing but I'm guessing the constant +12v power supply to the PDM module for the accessory outlet is the issue. It is not ignition switched. The accessory outlet has power all the time unless you switch off the batteries.