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I figure that if the level goes down in the canister (and nothing is leaking out anywhere), then the system is working.

While compressed air can apparently freeze its water content at fairly high temperatures, I don't think you need to worry in Texas. Case in point: The one thing I stole off of what was supposed to be the parts SEE (before realizing that it's a great running machine) was the alky injection...

I remember seeing a few for sale. Worst case, it wouldn't be all that hard to make one, once you have template of the shape.

When/if you do get into rock, that pin-on ripper makes a huge difference I've noticed. Hopefully you got one with your FLU.

That makes two of us, rtrask. I always figured that if I was given a backhoe to operate on perfectly flat ground, I'd have it on its side within 20 minutes. Thankfully, that still hasn't happened, which is odd. One thing that might help me a bit is that I run the engine at low rpms, so I can...

Hah! I have two things in my favor. For one, they don't auction off five or 10 per week like they used to. And more importantly, I don't want any more FLUs at this point. Actually, I'll probably sell the HME. Maybe even an HMMH. Maybe. Although, I still wouldn't mind having a parts car.

I dunno. The two best ones, from a mechanical standpoint, I've had looked the worst. Both intended to be parts cars. The one I use the most these days has forklift dents, mismatched paint, etc. Turns out it was all but completely refurbished but never repainted for some reason. I don't mind...

Optilube is what I use in the 3500 in the summer. Depending on when I get fuel delivered for things that stay on the property, like the FLUs, the supplier uses Howes if it's a fall or winter delivery. Not wanting to mix different brands, that's what I add to the tanks and vehicles as needed, too.

I don't know if the 911 is bad for the injectors, but it's not something you should use unless the system is already gelled up and you need to get going NOW. Regular anti gel can be used all the time without hurting anything. It's usually mostly a lubricity additive that also has anti gel...

If it's a Ram, it must be a 2010 or newer. Those should not smoke, no matter what (if it's stock). I have disconnected that potentially troublesome grid heater on my '17, and it still doesn't smoke much (a little bit, maybe for two minutes) at -10 or less. How much, and what kind of anti gel...

It wasn't the anti gel that made it smoke. They can put out quite a bit until warmed up, even when it's only zero degrees. Lower temps yet results in even more smoke.

For the FLUs it's not an issue. I have to put anti gel in the storage tanks when the fuel is delivered, since the supply generally lasts me a couple of years. For me, the odd one is the Ram 3500. It's driven so seldom that I often end up driving on winter fuel in the summer, and vice versa.

It's been discussed in this very thread. But unfortunately I don't remember in what literature the gas was mentioned. And yes, diesel #1 is what the winter fuel is referred to as. If you lived in a colder climate you'd get #1 in the winter whether you want it or not.

Well, when it's recommeded in the manual (for winter use), it could be considered approved, I'd think.

Mine starts in subzero weather all the time, without using the built in ether setup. But one of them injects some ether at every startup all by itself, which I don't mind since I like the smell. Anyway, since the factory included ether injection, it can't be all bad to use starting fluid. I'm...

In today's market, even $8K may not be bad at all. And it does have a hood. Unless the electrical system is ruined by rodents I'd go for it...if I wanted another one.

It's just a strainer. But a very expensive one.

When I change the fluid, first I retract as many cylinders as far as possible, then drain the tank. In your case I'd run the hydraulics for a little bit, then repeat the procedure. After all, hydraulic fluid is a lot cheaper than the parts it's operating in. And much easier to change.

Yes, it does indeed take a while for the gauge to show pressure. At least as long as it does to lift the loader and get the trans in gear. But like Migginsbros pointed out, it sure sounds like the engine has oil pressure even though the gauge isn't showing it yet. In the beginning it felt...

Oh, and there's one thing I'll do my best to remember for next time I drive that one in -10 temps, or less. Instead of raising the loader and driving off within a few seconds of starting the engine, I'll let it run for a minute or two first. After all, the fluid (whether SAE 10 or AW-32) isn't...