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If it was never changed, it should be 10W engine oil. Which isn't exactly ideal for the application. Either drain it out and replace with a fluid of your choice, or leave well enough alone.

Well, I didn't say that it's how you're supposed to do it, but using the loader and/or outriggers is definitely the fast and easy way to do it. One of mine came with the jack, but I have no intention of using it for a SEE. Instead, find a 3/4-inch impact (supposed to come with the HMMH), as...

If it came with the loader and backhoe, that should be all you need. Except for help with putting the flat tire back up.

Yep. Horse graves. But they could likely identify as holes in the ground where just about anything could be disposed of.

Thanks, Mullaney, and I hope your dog proves you wrong.

Yeah, these horses didn't keel over, but my girlfriend knew it'd be better to put them down than to let the suffer. And they were not easy decisions for her, as she probably cares more about them than people. Well, most people.

It's not quite as bad as it sounds. By digging "spare graves" now, while the weather is still nice and the ground not frozen isn't bad at all. So far it has paid off and the spares haven't been needed (kinda like insurance), but we recently had to put two down in somewhat rapid succession. And...

That's the perfect repair! One that fixes itself. I started chasing potential ground issues yesterday, ran out of time, and today is lube day. Have two horse graves to dig and once down in the river rock (about four feet down) it gets a bit demanding on the machine. Would be a miserable task...

Thanks, but I ordered a switch rated for over 300 Amps continuous to use with the winch, so as long as the factory switch handles keeping the gauges and starter operational , I should be good.

I have extremely limited internet access these days, so can't say if we're talking about the same switch. But there's only one master switch as far as I know, so it should be. And yes, they're not expensive at all.

Sorry, never got to it yesterday, but the one I bought (from somewhere, a few years ago) is a Bosch 0 341 001 001-001. More important, perhaps, is that I don't remember how I came up with that P/N. It's not based on looks alone, that much I know.

Hmm. I bought a new switch for the first SEE, since that one seems to be acting up. I can post the part number later and maybe you can confirm if it's the correct one or not. Anyway, shouldn't everything go off when the light switch is turned to "everything off"?

My shunt's still there, but only because it's hard to get to. And after seeing how corroded the through-the-frame connector below was, I'm surprised that anything works correctly. I'd like to hook the positive cable for the winch to that connector, but have so far only managed to get the nut on...

Then it sounds like the HME would be the perfect version for you. Those look like they're made to be at Burning Man, as delivered.

I'm not in the least concerned with paint, unless it somehow makes the SEE work better. And I ditched the dismal incandescent work lights for cheap LED versions. One of my smarter modifications.

To me, the diagnostic system as a whole is a lot of useless wiring and hardware. Of course, I'm one of those who when getting a new-to-me or new vehicle start removing things I don't need or like. Unlike most, who add things instead. And when I do add something, like the "extension hoses"...

I haven't got around to it yet, but it sure seems like there's some 3,000 feet of unnecessary wiring and other stuff that could be eliminated...which would make the FLU more reliable.

As I recall, it serves some sort of purpose in the diagnostic system, and also as another source of leaks. Get rid of it. Oh, and welcome!

Question for those who have either tilted the cab, or pulled the plate between the seats. Curious where the cable from the master switch ends up. As in where it's grounded to whatever it leads to. My reason for wanting to know is that I'd like to hook up the negative for a winch I installed at...

Hmm. I never removed any pulleys, just changed the belts. And that power steering tensioner isn't all that fun to adjust from below, but it can be done. Heck, even I managed.