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FMTV vs Unimog, depends on conditions. As long as the mud is not deep, the slope is not great and the surface has no topography, then the FMTV will do fine. Otherwise the Unimog wins every time. Kinda like comparing apples and oranges. If conditions favor the FMTV, it's a heck of a pulling...

Graniteclimber, hope this 'slight' deviation from your original water pump issue is ok. The alternator bracket issue you have is similar to Awesomenesses though so all this could be related. ��

Awesomeness, your candor in answering my somewhat insinuating questions is appreciated, and extremely enlightening! What if we (yes, me too, more below) are chasing the wrong cause, not a long term vibration but a recurring but specific event. Does your transmission occasionally slam into...

Thanks for the feedback! Your comment that the truck has "all that noise and vibration" may be a further clue that you do have some underlying issue unique to your truck (considering your results, my comment is "well duh"!). Other than a little drive-line chatter occasionally, mine is not...

Would it be reasonable for us other LMTV drivers to ask how you drive your truck? Are your trucks part of the group who have top speeds at 56-57 mph, that is, driven foot to the floor on long drives? That may not be an answer that comes easy. For every accessory that hangs on the engine...

Christian, I like your idea. I have also run my LMTV on two batteries, and those were not new. A good running truck will start on two batteries easily, in warm weather at least. Your idea to separate the two "sets" of 24 volt pairs is a good one. The whole point of having separate "house"...

If he had posted on here he'd have said "I got home safely and it towed just fine. I left plenty of room to stop".

Moisture in the bellhousing probably equals rust-stuck clutch disc to pressure plate or flywheel. Either one stuck and the throw out bearing does it's job but clutch does not release. Suggestion, drive it, drive it, drive it. Apply clutch often. Does not matter what gear you are in, you just...

Please note that the air driers on these trucks really were not junk and work fine if serviced properly. It's only the availability of newer air driers for sale (which are more easily serviced) that has caused denigration of the original driers. The trucks are not basically dangerous. As...

Unless you prep the areas under bedliner extremely well, you will develop rust in a few years. The very areas you want to protect are the ones that are harder to prepare well. Best to leave those nooks and crannies open to dry, IMHO. The very edges of panels contribute very little to noise...

The fuel solenoid should close when power is removed. Low battery (really low!) would therefore have the opposite effect of shutting off the engine when you didn't want it off. To be refusing to turn off, the solenoid might be sticking, as if the 'slug' is not sliding in the coil, or maybe...

There must be some corrosion in the differential. Have you drained the diff to see what is in there? Loosening that locker might be facilitated by driving in a straight line, wobbling left and right to load the locker one way then the other. The spring pushes back on the locker so wiggling it...

Maybe I say this too much, but concerning that beginning of a leak, just ignore it and it may go away. Seriously, these trucks, and other Unimogs often sit around a lot. It is common for a seal to start leaking when the truck is used again. As FLUfarm noted, just keep the hub topped up if it...

Voltage measurements on the number 3 terminal are misleading and meaningless, except to know 'something' is there. That voltage is pulsed at a rate depending on engine rpm. Response to pulsed voltages changes meter to meter. Remember that terminal 3 goes to the "points", in this case the...

Note that oil was suggested for the pressure test. A grease gun will pump oil too, you just might have to keep the tube/cylinder held high to keep down the mess.

Thinking more about your problem, specifically assuming that the piston is stuck in place and will not slide to engage, getting higher pressure might be the key. Where are you putting in penetrating oil? At the differential? What if you disconnected the tubing and screwed in a Zerk fitting...

That "o-ring" looks more like a face seal. If so, the seal will be tapered to fit the fitting and will be harder so it won't extrude into the tube. An o-ring could just as easily squish into the tube when you tighten the nut and then you would have a loose o-ring, or parts of one, headed for...

Thread title should have read "un-screwed".

With trailer loaded with 2/3 weight toward the front, the FJC springs will sag much more than the trailer will level, IMHO. My wife's FJC sags rapidly with a load. The trailer has much stronger springs. If this were my trailer I'd use it like you have it and aim for 10% tongue weight...

Search on Cummins Asphaltine Conditioner, what I use. Same thing as Fleetguard Asphaltine Conditioner. It seems to do a good job.