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Uh, oh. I thought that was common knowledge. Pumping the primer if it wouldn't start/keep running, that is.
Also, I don't fully understand the hate for the old style primer pump. Yes, I replaced one with a new style, but that was because the old one started leaking. I'll rebuilt it at some...
Good question. I'm so used to these things that I can't say for sure if the rest comes on or not. But I'd say it does, or I'd remember.
I also need to get into the valve compartment, as one outrigger lever is all but ineffective in the retract direction. Might be quickest to cut a large access...
I often have to turn the master switch off and back on again on the Winter SEE, leaving the clutch depressed.
Not enough of a hassle to make me find the real problem (which in my case is likely the master switch).
I bought a used 12-inch bucket for a 580 for one of mine. The geometry isn't exactly the same so it won't quite fold up like it's supposed to, but that doesn't matter to me.
Anyway, you can find aftermarket buckets and used ones on eBay or Craigslist, for example. The pins are standard issue...
I need to look at the bead areas, and a wheel, again and refresh my memory. As I recall it seemed fine.
And it was much more work to get the Michelins off than to mount the PitBulls and Swampers.
And to pick back, of course they don't. I have much more enjoyable vehicles to drive on the road.
Should a SEE need to be 25 miles from here, it'd go there on a trailer.
And if it had surplus radials on it, I would consider trailering on the property, too.
So there.
Like you, I wanted better tires than the stockers (which is almost anything), but not radials, and definitely not surplus radials.
Also wanted a wider stance and lower contact pressure, so on one SEE I put 39.5x16.50 PitBull Rockers, on 2-inch widened rims.
That setup works great, and there's...
I remember seeing what I thought was surprisingly reasonable rates. Not that I recall what they were, but it was for large and heavy machines.
As far as non running goes, I'd spend and hour or two to get the better one running. It's usually quite easy.
Most any broker should be able to get you...
Did anybody notice the two coming up for sale? At least one of them seems to be well worth the shipping cost, if the bidding stays reasonable, which it seems to do.
I wouldn't remove any material, since it used to be nice fit. Instead, try removing the gunk and corrosion like Speedwoble suggested.
It'd be less work, and a lot less than trying to get new material in there if it all ends up too sloppy.
I always drive with my hand on the lever, ready to lower the loader NOW, in iffy situations.
And I'd never run with the load that high off the ground, unless necessary for some odd reason.
One of these years I'll convert it to a mechanical linkage with a lever. But the dumb air operated setup insists on staying operational, so it's not high on my list.
Went to run the snowblower for a bit today and learned something new about the SEE.
Apparently one could stall the engine if the PTO pump can't do its thing. Turns out there was some ice at the bottom of the blower, which made it feel like I was trying to start in 4th gear when it couldn't turn.
Welcome, Hawaiimoger!
Don't get me wrong, but if you shift correctly there should be any grinding...even without using the clutch and with a non-synchro trans.
Spend some more time behind the wheel of your SEE and that issue (synchros?) may not be an issue at all.
I've been wanting to put air springs, at least in the rear, on my SEE. It's not fast enough to warrant having air bags...heck, I don't even use the seat belt.
Anyway, look on Firestone's web site and you'll find all the specs. Swapping coils for air springs is about as simple as it gets...
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