Search results

I don't remember what thread it's in, but basically we were warned not to have the splitter in low, just use direct First gear Low. Either way, I don't think the loader is meant for digging, that's what the backhoe is for. Then the loose dirt can be moved with the loader.

I know it says to wait, or serious damage can occur, or something to that effect. But why, or how? Having never waited for the pressure to build up (if it's low or zero to begin with), the FLUs and I are still alive and here to tell about it.

I don't envy you having to do that drive. After three or four years I have now put about 30 miles on the HMMH, but it has all been on the property, with the exception of one 4-mile round trip to the post office. During that trip I learned that the HMMH is like a sports car compared to the SEE...

If you have future uses for it, and it's in decent shape and you want one, buy it. We only live once. Obviously the current owner isn't all that familiar with the machine (or logical thinking in general), or he'd reach in over the tire to prime it instead of hassling with the dog house, so the...

It was going into a K-20 Suburban ('73-'91), if that helps. PM me a phone number and we'll discuss this. I may take a couple of cars to SoCal soon, if the weather cooperates. If so, there would be room on the trailer for an engine, trans, etc., too.

There are three wires, right? Two would be hot depending on which switch you pull, and one should be ground. I'm just guessing, but still.

Okay, here are some photos of the engine.

See, you're perfectly safe to proceed with the experimental wiring effort.

Possibly. But probably only if you got the ether start function working already, and there's a leak. If you leave the doors open, even that potential explosion shouldn't hurt anything. After all, the windshield is not only secured by the normal seal, but also three wires.

You only have 15 possibilities to get them installed incorrectly. Start trying...what could possibly go wrong?

I'm fairly sure mine are SAE, and I used a 1-7/8 socket. The 1-inch hydraulic impact had to work a bit, despite the threads having been soaked with 50/50 ATF and acetone for a few days. If not for using penetrant, I'd guess it'd take a very long breaker bar...or cheating, like Speedwoble did.

What's the deal with the obviously not stock crimp connectors with wires in a Y configuration?

Remembered wrong, it's a side mount.

Sorry, the closest one I know of is General Hood, in Oklahoma. Anyway, here's my M1031.

Chris, that's basically an M1008, but with better mechanicals and an aluminum box on the back (not slant back, though), with a generator, compressor, and such inside. Unfortunately, the only HMMW related thing I have is a GEP built 6.5, still on a pallet.

Would a very nice M1031 with under 7,000 miles on it be close enough to a turret kit?

Looks like I lucked out when I got mine directly from GEP. Not that it matters since the whole project came to a grinding halt anyway.

It's up front, as I recall. Need to pull the moving blankets off and refresh my memory. I've gotten fairly used to my MO, which is two steps forward and three back. And not only when it comes to automotive stuff.

Sorry to hear that your luck can be as bad as mine at times. Anyway, I have a dynoed, 6.5 still sitting on its shipping pallet in case you're interested.

Hmm. I should check what the actual voltage is on the Winter SEE. I know it likes to over charge, but not by how much. Anyway, the Volt meter comes on when you power up the system, regardless of if the engine is running or not. Just like the other gauges.