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Somewhere in the main thread is the story about my reluctant bucket pin, and how I finally got it out. That included using 50/50 ATF and acetone, which puts all other penetrating oils to shame. Hitting pins harder can really backfire, as they tend to mushroom.

Except for the feed and return lines and their QD couplings, I'd think that everything is standard Case 580 D stuff. If it's a D, I don't remember for sure.

I'm painfully aware of that I haven't used mine much recently, but I'll do my best to put another hundred or so hours on one.

Sounds like fun, peakbagger. I hope you rinsed out the fuel system really well. Without even having to touch anything electrical, except for charging the battery, I'm arguing with a small generator that has been sitting since 2011. This excuse for gasoline we get these days has been keeping me...

I'd use the clamp-on meter if I wanted to know. Every connection in an electrical system is a potential problem source, so the fewer the better, I think.

Ron, only a lack of time has prevented me from ripping all that crap out. I'm especially suspicious of the shunt by the batteries, which may be a problem source on my Winter SEE. Then again, with the system intact there's a 50/50 chance that a rodent will gnaw on a useless wire rather than one...

Happy 4th!

You could put a little "noose" on it, and try getting it out first.

They make solid soft rubber rings for the purpose, but I don't have a 20-inch. Bicycle tubes should work, thanks for the tip!

Very good point about the efficiency of a FLU, Speedwoble. There's an easy way, and then there's the more fun FLU way.

Yes, I think that's part of a the problem. A big part. A thumb, as I understand it, is intended to grip something with. That would be a force almost entirely in line with the hinge points. Start tweaking it by inducing side loads on it, and all bets are off. Not to rag on Speedwoble here, but...

Love your door decal! I would like to have one on every vehicle I own...except many would say that then I couldn't drive them.

A bit brutal with the levers, maybe, but it worked.

I agree. Running AW-32 in mine.

Not sure if it really matters. There must be some 10W left in my SEEs, and they still work. But since you're already running AW-32, I'd use that for the flush, too.

After the first time I drained the rear tank, I saw the value of those "over priced" malleable plastic funnels. Anyway, I'd put the cheapest possible fluid in there, run everything for a bit, then drain it out (cylinders retracted) and refill with a good AW-32.

Only one was leaking? You're lucky. By the way, if you replace the Schrader valve setup with a regular quick disconnect air fitting you'll be able to fill the system a lot ​quicker.

I'd pull the drain plug on the tank.

I'm really tired, but isn't 87 normally "power out"? In other words, it is only carrying power when the relay is energized.

With a tow bar, I hope, in case it does start. I've had a few near misses using rope or straps. Of course, with two people it works fine.