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1097A2 has the same gearing as all the rest of the A2 series trucks. The M1123 is basically identical but for the rear bumper, and mine I've hit 77mph, and as others have stated, it will go faster.

probably no consensus for any of them, but I like Optilube XL. I buy gallon jugs then use some HDPE measuring bottles. Was cheaper to buy a dozen pack of the bottles than buy 3 or 4 so I did the dozen pack and use them for other additives as well such as biocide, antigel, and others...

yes, all you would have to do is wire to a 24V source then to the hot side of the cadillac valve wires. Would be a relatively easy/straightforward wiring job.

I think only in low pressure or extreme side load situations where the bead is able to move on the rim would the sidewall stiffness be noticeably affected, and only next to the bead itself. The rest of the sidewall shouldn't be affected. If you're running the tires at low enough pressure for it...

only real advantage is the wheel/tire assembly weighs less overall so it's easier to balance. Also a little less work when changing out the tire on the wheel. Downsides are the tire does have increased risk of coming off the rim when the tire pressure is low. Most people recommend not going...

date code is usually only printed on one side of the tire, so check the other side if you don't see it.

I've used the BEOD for camping a few times. A twin mattress fits inside easily after removing a couple pieces of metal near the front (were there to protect the robot operator seating area and not really needed if you don't have the extra seat installed back there (which can't be used for...

It might have gone through a rebuild in 2007, but that's a 3 speed truck, so use the parts manual for the 1097A1 for most things. Will be from 1993 or earlier.

Any chance you could use a few more acronyms in that so that those of us not good at guessing will be completely clueless, rather than just mostly clueless as to what you're talking about? :p

I am nobody. Nobody is perfect. Therefore I am perfect. :p

Fortunately generators, unlike alternators, can run with no battery connected (or completely dead batteries) and not have issues. Alternators will burn up if you do that.

throwing the switch doesn't shut down the truck, but does it have any effect on the transmission control module? Do you get stuck in limp mode or does it still work properly?

that gauge should be more than enough. It doesn't care what the fluid is, just the pressure. So at this point you have plenty of pressure going out of the valve, all that is left is a couple hoses and the fan clutch. It's always possible that the issue is somehow a failed hose, but unlikely...

on the plus side, most of the parts you replaced are ones that do fail from time to time, so having spare ones on the shelf doesn't hurt. Also all things considered, it was relatively inexpensive at only a few hundred dollars, compared to the thousands that some people have thrown at issues with...

Yes, I've read every post in this thread. It does jump around a bit to be honest, and with everything going on, it seems that each of the individual pieces of the system pass when tested individually, but that overall the system still doesn't appear to function properly. At nowhere that I read...

My suggestion at this point is to open up the manual TM-9-2320-20-1 to page 2-164 and follow the flow chart diagnostics all the way, performing every single test that it tells you to without skipping any of them. Don't make any assumptions that just because you replaced a part that it "must be...

If you carry enough pulleys and some spare winch line, you can usually find a way to winch yourself out in any direction (provided you have something to hook your winch line to.) of course, most of my driving is in the forest, so plenty of trees to use if I need to hook up to something, but...

This is sounding more and more like a battery/electrical issue to me. Warm engines take less power to crank them. Just to verify, what batteries are you using? How old are they? Have you had them tested? Have you tried a cold start after putting a charger on the batteries?

Have you verified that the hoses between the cadillac valve and the fan clutch are clear? The next logical thing that could be the issue would be failed/blocked lines. I suppose I should ask where you are disconnecting the lines to use air to cycle the fan clutch during testing. If it's right...

when the starter disengages, is it still spinning and running up against the flywheel, or does it just kind of stop and not spin at all? My very first thought is to take your batteries in and get them tested.