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Ouch! That's harsh, Ron. Almost as if you longer like her.

Welcome, Jon! You may want to be more precise (at least when dealing with me). If "no electrical system is working" I wouldn't expect a SEE to start, let alone activate the tool circuit. And now that you got me going; there won't be any current showing on a Volt meter. It'll take an Amp meter...

Hmm. Wonder if I can sell my M1031 3.25 years ago this way?

Maybe not, which is what making one from an NPT Tee and three barbed brass fittings is more appealing to me. You can always machine, or even file, down a fitting to a slightly smaller diameter.

Today's SEE "work" was something they're undeniably really good for: compaction. This also presented the opportunity to finally lube the backhoe, and after an hour I'm still fighting one Zerk that won't take grease. Two I did get to cooperate, but this last one (at the bottom of the boom) is...

Those Tees look like something available in the "Help" section of most auto parts store. If not (actually, regardless), I would use a brass Tee and three barbed fittings if I needed one.

That sure sounds like a restriction somewhere in the system to me. Or, like Speedwoble suggested, the tool circuit is on, but without the high idle function. I'd think that you should be able to hear the fluid fighting to get through somewhere.

Looks like you raided my garage.

It really shouldn't matter what condition the springs are in. Once the axle hits the bump stop, the tires take up the same space whether they came from 0.5 or eight inches below.

Today's SEE related festivities were to modify a very neglected ditch. It only required two cleansings of the strainer, which for whatever reason now clogs the screen rather than ending up at the bottom of the cup. Must be getting down the finer crap in the tank. In the photo, I'm letting the...

Have 255/85R16s on aftermarket wheels (with correct offset) on the M1008, and they don't rub even with tire chains. And if they did, it'd be self clearancing.

I have yet to see a lift kit that enlarges a wheel well. It takes minor trimming to make 35s fit, and it's easy enough to paint the edges afterwards. Unless you point it out, 99% of vehicle enthusiasts will never notice that you cut the edges.

Today's FLU useage was to place a 20-foot culvert. Yes, it could've been done with a tractor, but using the HMMH is more precise. And more fun. If the weather cooperates, tomorrow's task will be to get a SEE into the ditch to dig it out. That'll be a fight against gravity, laterally. And literally.

Not having the special tool, I've simply used a hair dryer to soften up the plastic a bit, then push it in place.

Welcome, Quickster. And I hope that by "Replace", you mean with something useful. Besides, the actual headlights are pretty useless no matter what you put in there since the loader covers most of them.

I've never had the front system get hot, either. Heck, I can barely get the rear one warm enough to turn on the fans. Except with the snow blower, which is constant, full power. Then again, I rarely use the loader. My guess would be a restriction of some sort, somewhere. Assuming that the fluid...

Bel-Metric has everything you need, and then some. Ask for Matt. He's the guy with not only the hardware, but also Unimog knowledge.

That you lost power steering and the front hydraulics is fairly obvious without the belts, but why the heck did the belts come off??? If you were in something deep enough to derail the belts, then the already leak prone drain valves on the air tanks were likely disturbed, and there went your air...

There's always the option of using a simple Volt meter (or even a test light) to confirm that things are still wired as intended, just in case.

I looked for the front and rear filters initially, and found them to be painfully expensive. Thankfully, once I pulled one out I realized that there's no reason to replace them, just treat them to a simple cleaning - if even that is necessary. Never did see even a spec of dirt on any of them, so...