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I don't know for sure but it's likely metric and so probably the same since the stock wheel is really just a Steyr wheel from Germany. I'm honestly with Third on this one though. I wouldn't go down in steering wheel diameter. Even for a big dude like myself - I like to be able to one hand palm...

It's done quite regularly in the vintage computer world. There really is no issue if it's done carefully and allowed to dry completely before being powered up. Plain water and soap for a few minutes isn't going to cause even a fraction of the corrosion in the short term that the last 20 years of...

Those are where the devices would mount *if* you had them. You don't have either of those things. You don't want to delete your ABS control module and your air-over-hydraulic pump unless you are planning to go full manual or electric-over-hydraulic.

If you really want it CLEAN then you remove it and wash it in soap and water with a soft brush then allow to dry in the sun. Apply Deoxit to the connections. Anything thick like dielectric grease will just trap dirt. After the cleaning inspect all the solder joints with high powered...

Flashing green on the voltage regulator is good.

This is typical. Unless it happens to be a part used in the civilian world (and don't think that means engine and transmission parts - only *sometimes* is that the case) it very often will carry a part number that is mandated by the government to be distributed only to authorized channels - this...

The electronic manuals don't have page numbers. I just searched for "engine mount" and the applicable section came up under Maintenance Instructions -> Field-Maintenance Instructions -> Engine Maintenance Work Packages -> ENGINE FRONT RESILIENT MOUNT AND MOUNTING BRACKET REPLACEMENT But...

TM shows lifting the engine to take the weight off the mounts and enough to get to the fasteners but doesn't require disconnecting anything else at all which means the engine isn't moving very far. It does caution that the engine weighs 1500 lbs so plan accordingly. A gantry setup and a chain...

Agree. Wouldn't delete them. We have a good community/network of FMTV and other military vehicles throughout the country on this forum and the facebook groups, etc and some of us have tow bars, air hoses, and interconnect cables that can allow us to rescue or be rescued. Not having the front...

These are all good too. Down to semantics but I would call these preventative maintenance. Fixing to me addresses something that is broken or missing. Fine lines between preventative maintenance, fixes, upgrades, and modifications. They all land on a spectrum somewhere for sure but fuel hoses...

Doubt that would work without a LOT of effort. A lot of this software is cracked and relies on direct hardware access and has problems working even under actual windows machines. It's flaky and difficult to get to work under the best conditions. It you have all the time in the world to devote...

As a software engineer in a former career path I understand the sentiment and for me the disembodied hand of Steve Jobs ghost can keep his bony fingers the hell out of my wallet..... but all that aside - the military standardized on Windows so if you want to have any meaningful coms with the...

ECO hubs (#1 with a bullet) Cruise Control Factory style A1P2 air conditioning 370 HP ECM flash Gen 1 HIMARS turret hatch.

The one I linked to is the NSN/part number called out by the A1R/A1P2 parts manual as fitting trucks with serial numbers above 100,623 The older valve is part number QS5-5CTP or NSN 4810-01-442-8695 The older trucks used two intake "atomizers" while the C7 trucks use one. They are not the same...

This is the US Army - not NASA. That's a sealed unit and has no maintenance. Operator PMCS: Monthly 0.1 Ether Starting Aid 1. Check ether cylinder (Figure 3, Item 1) for loose or damaged mounts and hardware. Check ether cylinder and injection valve (Figure 3, Item 2) for damage. So...

It depends on which controller you have, and the power/ground/open state of pins M and Z. And as Ronmar pointed out you could have a skewed pressure transducer signal, or someone changed the programing with the diagnostic software. Best way to know for sure is to hookup the diagnostic software...

The listing says MRAP, M939, FMTV, LMTV. Guessing it would fit an M35A3 also.... probably other stuff as well. There are no stock programs I'm aware of that run 65 to 70 psi in HWY. You will have to program it. Also what you "guess" and what a tire chalk says and what the truck decides it's...

Not really, no. You can find the Dana controllers brand new for like $600 to $700. And used one's are $100 to $200 and will continue to land on the surplus market for decades in both new and used form. With the free software, an RP1210 adapter that you should probably have anyway if you have an...

I've had one of the 5 light failures also. But the one and only Arduino I've touched was also bricked. So there's that. They have continued to make improvements in the controllers - the one I'm currently using is a 2012 black case unit that can coms with J1939. @Lostchain has a 2016 unit that's...

The Dana controllers are pretty good actually. Especially the later black unit that speaks J1939. That's the only one to get IMO. The Arduino option(s?) are interesting but the truck I'm troubleshooting at the moment seems to have bricked one of those (lights up and then the display just fades...