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So on the way to the beach drive, about 15 minutes from my house, started hearing funny noises from the engine, and a little smoke.
Pulled over along the freeway and popped the hood. Found an idler pulley locked up on the serpentine belt.
Doused the pulley in water to cool it off, and drove...
All A2 and newer trucks will have 12k halfshafts. So if it was manufactured with a 4 speed transmission, then it has 12k shafts (though there is more than one type of 12k shaft)
The 3 speed trucks use 7 or 10k shafts (interchangeable)
If you do take it into a shop, the specs should be the same as an early H1.
If you have any mechanical aptitude, then you can save money by removing the rear shims yourself before taking it in for alignment.
Last oil I bought was some 1 gallon jugs of DP semi-synthetic 15W40 from tractor supply, marked down to $10 per gallon about a month ago. I bought all 6 gallons they had in the markdown section. (Had Heavy-D from youboob on the label?)
it's off brand, and I don't see it on the website, but...
Those quick disconnects are notorious for leaking at the connection.
It's HMMWV specific so your local hydraulics shop is unlikely to have it.
I didn't want to wait so I replaced it with standard hydraulic fittings on both parts. Could do it though the fan blades, but a total pain in the butt...
There should be no issues with laying them down like that.
The Scepter cans are approved for use inside the cabins of airplanes, so just laying them down shouldn't be enough to make them leak if the seals are in decent shape.
M1123 with BEOD and DRASH trailer.
Scaled at 13,500 lbs
Max speed on the level was 67 mph. Just not enough power to go any faster than that.
When no trailer and no BEOD she'll do 80+ on the flat, and 60ish on the uphills around here.
Mine is a lower serial number (183xxx)
I put 2000 on the paperwork.
Some places older is better, but you also want to be as honest as possible (or I do at least)
Agreed. Oil in any engine that has been run should be changed yearly, no matter how many miles they are supposed to last. Even engines that burn fuel like propane or natural gas still have combustion byproducts that get into the oil and can cause issues over time.
Synthetic oils are a whole different thing than conventional.
Many synthetic oils are engineered in such a way that for multi viscosity ratings, they don't have to add anything to lower the first number. They handle the heat and stress inside the engine much better than their conventional...
first number is how it flows at very cold temp.
Second number is how it flows at operating temperature.
Sure you can run 5W40, but in conventional oils they have to use additives to modify the flow characteristics at cold temps. The further apart the two numbers are is also directly related to...
Somewhere there is a procedure for flushing the crankcase, but can't remember where it is.
Basic procedure is:
1) drain all oil/water
2) fill with 50% oil and 50% diesel
3) idle engine 30 minutes
4) drain engine
5)refill with oil to proper level
Not sure if it's this exact one, but it's a metal piece with a taper to it, and a rubber grommet that also has a taper. When the metal piece is tightened down, ot compresses the grommet in on the cable passing through it to create a tight seal...
That's a pass through for an antenna cable
Shelter power cables went either straight to the batteries or to the 200 amp umbilical plug in the rear passenger footwell. None of the shelters (as far as I know) had power cables that ran through the rear passenger area and into the wheelwell.
The glass portion doesn't discolor.
A lot of traditional "bulletproof glass" is actually layered polycarbonate that will degrade over time. The bulletproof glass for these is actually glass, not polycarbonate, so the only layer that degrades is the plastic inner "anti-spawl" plastic that's...
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