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I'd leave the tires on, making it easier to move the axle around. Also, for the removal, the backhoe and outriggers are your built in "spring compressors", making leaving the tires on more appealing yet. Of course, digging into the axle would be my very last resort. Unless I absolutely needed...

I would seriously consider getting it off the hillside before taking the axle off or apart. Also, keep in mind that depending on whatever penetrant you're using, it can can take days, weeks, or even months, before things get freed up. If it's regular WD-40, it may never happen. Another way to...

I wouldn't worry about any additive, only the Gov-Lok itself.

You could always get a SEE to smooth out the driveway with. Oh, wait, you have one.

Today's CUCV related accomplishment isn't applicable to a typical CUCV. To keep from having to lug a mount and pintle hook to and from the M1008, I installed a permanent pintle hook. While most everything involved (except me) was made in China, at least I did get to use 3/4-inch tools...not 19...

Sounds like you're fighting air leaks and/or crap in the tank, or a plugged vent - like many of us are, or have been. Personally I've never had a the engine act up due to bouncing...but then, I've never driven fast enough over anything to make a FLU bounce.

If I were smart, I'd start using the Craftsman Universal socket and wrench sets. Then it wouldn't matter if the fasteners are Metric, SAE, square, or previously attacked with an adjustable wrench. Or I could work closer to the garage. That would also cut down on time spent walking to get the...

So is the tie rod technically in the engine bay, or below it? Must be below since all the factory fasteners were SAE on my M1008. And the batteries are definitely in the engine bay - with SAE fasteners on the clamps.

Today's CUCV related achievement was to get rid of the useless black out light and install a cheap LED work light in its place. If I can keep doing this, replacing or installing one or two parts per day on my vehicles, the garage would be much less cluttered by year 2058, or so.

Yep, like Rusty says. It's easier to strengthen that area before it fails than after the fact. Then again, many, many millions of miles have been put on these Chevys without any frame failures whatsoever. It probably depends largely on driving style (terrain), and maybe to some extent, wheel...

I'd agree with the stump or rock theory having seen and bent many tie rods that way. But in this case the bend is down, not back, as it would be from such an impact. The two photos show the tie rod in the same plane. All I can think of to get such a bend is that either something like a long (and...

My FLUs are running fine, dear General. Thanks for asking. It's a shame that you couldn't post that video, though. Really.

Nasty? Kind? Sir?? Me??? Okay, I'll merely suggest (in private, of course) that you prop up the exhaust flapper next time so it at least looks like it may be running.

Called Blue Devil tech this morning as I was curious about the guarantee. Sure enough, you may get your money back if the product doesn't work, but if it creates any problems you're on your own. I'd read up on this and similar products last night, and thinking it all through while we were...

I was just going by the vertical tire to fender clearance, which looks perfect to me.

If I wanted to use Metric tools, I'd work on my European cars...no, wait, those have standard fasteners. Except for a few Whitworth plugs. Okay, I'd work on the Unimogs, which are mostly Metric. I can probably learn to live with Metric again, it's the mix I can't stand.

Those are sagging springs?!? Looks fine to me.

How kind of you not to sell that one, too, keeping it for him to enjoy. Oh, I noticed that you/he are playing it safe, without the engine running. Makes sense, especially since that one rarely runs anyway.

After 10 or so years, today the bent tie rod on the M1008 got replaced. Had the parts for almost a year, so it was time. How it got bent I never did figure out - even a GP forklift driver would be hard pressed to bend the rod in this fashion. Should've looked at the replacement parts sooner...

Well, I'll be dipped. According to the Chevy manual it is indeed supposed to be 20, 50, and then 90 degrees. I'd rig up a degree wheel of some kind, camshaft style, to ensure that it ends up being 90 degrees. Anyway, you're far from the first one to forget that we're dealing with a basic GM...