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It almost sounds as if you're insinuating that GM's engineers knew what they were doing. Not only that, but better than whoever first thought of the shackle flip (likely encouraged by beer and/or moonshine, and a complete lack of money).
Unfortunately, replacing the CV-joint with a single...
Have you considered those bushings into the springs you have? Stock suspension should be adequate for putting around town, and then some.
And if you want to run 35s, they should fit, with minimal fender trimming if using wide wheels.
That's tempting. If you can arrange to turn the temperature down a few notches. Remember, I don't do well in much over 70 degrees.
Being able to dig up your wife's flower beds, using your SEE...yeah, that is tempting. Except, yours doesn't run now, does it?
Not quite. It's a truck bed I'm busily cutting more and more off of, and changing in other ways. Really should've started from scratch instead of modifying a factory made bed.
And I wouldn't call the (formerly) a runner quite yet. Would be nice if that turns out to be the case, and one thing is...
You may want to not drive it in the meantime. For now it's probably bushings and seals, but it the tail housing breaks...
Then again, you said that you want a slip yoke eliminator kit.
Speaking of 60 minutes, today the care package from Bel-Metric arrived (that was quick!), and I couldn't resist installing the transparent hose to find out if there would be any bubbles in the fuel. By the way, I had misunderstood Matt. The hose goes between the filters and injector pump, so any...
Are you saying that they shortened the splined part? If so, that's not good. It would make thing wobblier and wear faster.
That a pro shop did something unfortunately doesn't mean much. I can give a few examples of truly scary things I've seen shops do.
You mention the weight of the CV-joint...
Rick, keep in mind that not only does the axle move back when the suspension deflects (because of the shackles), but with that goofy shackle flip, the spring will also move back as it moves up. Even if you had a correct lift, I'd say that the driveshaft is too short. Or more accurately, the...
Okay, okay. My plan was to talk alpine44 out of the whole thing, buy that SEE for cheap, drive west until it craps out, then sell it to General Hood for a profit and let him worry about having it shipped the rest of the way.
Don't get me wrong here, alpine. I encourage you to get that SEE home and get it working right (misery loves company). It's the drive I take exception to.
I posted about the adapters and ball valves I use a while back, but maybe not with part numbers. PM me if you want, and maybe we can get at...
Exactly. If all three drain valves leak a bit, and maybe you have one or two more small leaks somewhere, that's all it takes not to hear them over a typical running SEE engine, and not build pressure.
Not that it sounds as if the seller is overly talented in mechanics, but maybe you could talk...
I have run many thousands of miles with over 25 degrees on the U-joints (good for about 300 rpm according to Spicer) that routinely see over 3,000 rpm.
But I also grease them regularly.
Because, as I tried explaining earlier, tire balance doesn't last forever. Tires wear, and there are other factors within the tire that affects balance over time.
But it's a moot point in this case. For tire balance discrepancies to be felt at 1-5 mph you'd have to have nearly square tires.
Technically, a correctly done leaf spring lift doesn't matter (to a point, of course). By moving the axle straight down, the front and rear U-joint angles change the same in both ends, and the resulting variation in driveshaft speed created by the U-joints gets canceled out. But with tapered...
"Tires balanced (no wheel weights missing)"??? That's like saying that the engine has oil...it did 8,000 miles ago and hasn't leaked a drop. But either way, the tires shouldn't be an issue at 1-5 mph.
Anyway, I would check the U-bolts for correct torque. And if you have lift blocks in the rear...
Which reminds me. Remind me to look up the thread on the often leaky and obnoxious drain valves on the air tanks. Then consider bringing a plug.
Or chewing gum.
I've installed several Unity spot lights on these GM A-pillars, but it's been a while.
They sit fairly low, as you've noticed, but can't picture how you could get one to interfere with the window going up and down.
I may still have a light in the box (with a template), but please try contacting...
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