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I'm sorry to hear that. Hopefully you will recover as much as possible and be able to make it to events in the future.

So a couple observations after looking at this style. What it looks like they did (at least to me) was drill the proper size holes in the front side to fit the pintle and the bolts, then the back side they drilled oversized holes to fit spacers. Then they added a plate over the spacer, and...

So this is the picture of the rear "bumper" non airlift type from my M1123. As you can see it's basically a 2"x4" piece of tubing. I haven't taken a closer look, but I would assume that they just cut a hole in the back, insert a piece of tubing that is the right size for the pintle, then weld...

However... Depending on your skill level with machining tools and a welder, the A2 non-airlift rear bumper doesn't use the bracket with the pintle, and just uses some type of tube welded into it.

Looking in the parts manual at the airlift bumper it appears that they do just cut a pocket into the bumper, then add a reinforcement plate to the outside surface to give it additional strength. EDIT: the ECV/REV parts manual has the same design for the airlift pintle where it's a cutout into...

In this case, you can see it was image number 142 and image number 143 for the 2 different versions of the geared hub internals. Then the other thing when looking at parts and different versions of the truck there is the UOC after the description. If you aren't familiar with the UOC...

There is often more than one page/image/list in the parts manual because of the number of differences between the A0/A1 and the A2 trucks. If your manual is new enough (I don't know if they released older parts manuals from before the A2 series, but it's possible there are some out there on the...

if you fold it out, can't you access the ratchet mechanism from the backside, or am I missing something? Sorry, never seen one in person so not sure if it would interfere somehow.

That isn't what I heard. I was under the impression that it got set to the side for that session, and was supposed to be reintroduced the next session, then the covid crap took over. I'm showing both it and the House version have this as their last entry: Jan 13 By resolution, reintroduced...

just to add, my truck is an M1123 and had the clean SF-97 paperwork. No inspection required or anything else. 2 years ago the DMV at the state level put out a letter to all offices telling them NOT to license any military surplus truck unless the owner could prove it had an FMVSS decal on...

been 2 years now so hard to remember exactly, but I know I had my SF-97, and the invoice/bill of sale showing how much I paid for it, along with how much tax I had to pay. Without that you'd have to pay full value for the local tax rate. The licensing office only made me pay the difference...

Welcome to the group. There is also a facebook group for the Pacific NorthWest military vehicle owners that goes by a related name (PNW Steel Soldiers) if you're interested. We do occasional group activities with our rigs, but most of us seem to be based on the westside here so this is where...

I don't have any of those yet, or for quite a while if I have any say over the matter, so I have to figure out how to do these things by myself still :p

Good to see there are several things going on; too bad they are both on the same weekend. Yes, one is there to "support veterans" while the other is just a bunch of people with military trucks or equipment or whatever just hanging out. Unfortunately with a lower population density, there just...

torque pattern evenly spaced Torque pattern paired studs (in case the earlier image is hard to read) I use either a sharpie (hard to see but works) or a paint marker and go around the rim labeling every stud in it's torque sequence so I don't get lost/confused and miss tightening any nuts down.

those aren't the clearest for the torque pattern, so here: Evenly spaced paired I like to use a sharpie or a paint marker and go all around the rim, numbering the studs in sequence before I start, otherwise it's very difficult to know where you're supposed to be at in the sequence.

So I stole that image from another thread here; the manual I have downloaded is an older one from before the 24 bolt wheels. As Action said, it's the same torque values as the paired stud wheels, but looking at the manual on my phone (very slow computer internet) it is a different torque...

Just for reference for next time, the paired 24 stud wheels only get torqued to 110 lb-ft, not the 125 that the 12 stud rims get tightened to.

Those 38" should fit no problem, stock is 37" You might not be able to run full size tire chains with them though, if that is a concern. If your suspension is good (and it's not uncommon for the springs to sag on these, so check them), you can do up to 40" tire without a lift. The reason...