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A jeep would be 6 Volt. A Jeep would have 6 or 12 Volt, depending on model year. Not that it helps me understand what's really going on here.

Maybe the conclusion was that there was no appreciable increase in load carrying capability to be had? If there is an advantage to running duals other than to carry loads that can't be supported by single tires, I haven't heard about it yet.

Peakbagger, nothing to it. Okay, it did require patience. And advice from SS members. And some luck. And ordering a new pin, just so I wouldn't need it. But if I were you I would start the process now, by removing the sleeve. One large and one smaller chisel was all it took, once it was turned...

In 16 years, including much 'wheeling, I never managed to hit my head on the CB I mounted in that position. Radio went in the original spot in the dash.

Thanks, Tony. I could point out that the nut had to be dressed as it developed some sharp ridges from the impact. And that by dumb luck it sticks out exactly as much as the bucket is wide, which is one reason I left it on there. Installing the "new" narrow bucket wasn't as bad as I'd thought...

Done. And no more chance of moisture messing things up again.

Just out of curiosity, it seems like most of you want to retain the NP208 rather than going with a 205 or Atlas 'case. Other than cost, is there a good reason to keep the 208 that I have missed?

Which is one reason I installed ball valves instead. Now there's 60 psi in the system after 24 hours. EDIT: Make that 48 hours. And yes, that tank "clearance" looks painfully familiar. My next task is to get the tank out, completely, as the pickup tube must be at least partially at fault, based...

Yep, the sleeve came off, which was instrumental in getting the pin out (thanks you, Migginsbros), and it'll be replaced with a piece of tubing. With a Zerk fitting in it.

The thought of using rotational force rather than lateral wouldn't go away. Even eyeballed a 2-3/8" wrench when returning the borrowed puller, figuring that moving the wrench with the bucket's hydraulics might work. Nah, not about to risk damaging a borrowed wrench. Looked around for a...

Indeed, but I don't think I have a suitably sized bolt. Besides, I'd prefer to weld the end of the pin to the ID of a nut. Then, when my crappy weld breaks, I can weld on the backside, too.

That nut welding idea sounded good until I realized that I don't have a 2-3/8" impact socket. It would've been the perfect nut, too, fitting fine over the tapered end of the pin, and already sliced in half (needed to make a spacer for a gooseneck trailer ball). New pin not not, it would be easy...

I hate being a quitter. Borrowed a better puller today, and used the air chisel (with appropriate flat bits) in an effort to rattle things loose, but no luck. As seen in the photo, at the link that now can be moved, rust colored residue is flowing out with each application of the 50/50 A/A mix...

As I recall, blue light affects night vision the most, yet isn't necessarily easy to see. Which supposedly was the reason for emergency vehicles starting to use blue beacons during the war in Europe. Red would be my first choice, based on night vision.

Tony, I came across an article where some outfit had tested the more common penetrants, and also the ATF/acetone mix. That mix scored so much better than even the best of the best known penetrating oils that it wasn't funny. That was probably 10 or 15 years ago, but I never did get around to...

Today's free advice; If you ever have any plans to remove the lower pin on the backhoe bucket, start soaking the inner area with your favorite penetrating oil weeks in advance. Unless you favorite is WD-40, in which case don't bother.

Thanks for that good advice, Ron. Although now it looks like that pin could be removed without any heat. No, I'm not betting on it, but after following Migginsbros' suggestion and removing the sleeve it appears feasible. Predictably, there was a fair amount of crud in there, but surprisingly the...

The spacer is moving freely, although at first it was stuck, too. Removing it may very well be a good idea as it would allow cleaning the pin in that area between the links before trying to get the pin out, like you guys did. Making a replacement from tubing is easy enough. Thanks for that tip...

Okay, one link down, one to go. It can now be rotated by hand, but barely. Now for the harder part; getting the second link freed up. I'll probably try reassembling it all, then immobilizing the pin and use the backhoe to move the link relative to the pin. How to make the pin stop turning? Weld...

I wouldn't call the pin damaged. The center indentation in the one end is now larger from the cone on the puller, and the longer, tapered end of the pin is deformed from (mostly) beating on it and from the puller. So far today, I took a chance and drove out the pin at the upper end of one link...